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Routes in Mt. Lincoln

Falling Water TR WI2 PG13
Lincoln's Throat WI3
Mixed Idiot TR WI4 M2 PG13
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Type: Ice, Alpine, 100 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,227 total · 67/month
Shared By: KeithS on Dec 4, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Lincoln's Throat ascends a drainage gully on the west side of Mt. Lincoln. To get to the gully, hike the Old Bridal Path for roughly a mile. When the trail makes a sharp left turn with a moderate drop to your right, descend here through the trees to an old logging road. Follow this road alongside the brook eventually hiking in the brook proper. Follow this all the way up passing 2 other gullies, one coming down from the right, the other from the left. The gully on the left takes you to the Serpentine route. Follow the main drainage as it continues to get steeper eventually leading to the "Throat", an iced up dihedral. Some steep snow leads you to the base of the ice then have at it! Several short bulges lie above the dihedral. Keep going until you hit the krumholtz then thrash/scramble/fight your way trending right eventually running into the ridge. From here, take it left to Lafayette and down Old Bridal or right over Lincoln and down Falling Waters.


West side of Mt. Lincoln. Descend off of the Old Bridal Path at the sharp left turn when you hear the brook down and away to your right


Several screws (6-8)
bradley white   Bend
That's the way to do it. Nice find. Feb 3, 2012
M LaViolette Jr.
The Past
M LaViolette Jr.   The Past
There is an extra left that comes off the main gully down low that confused us for a minute, just make sure to stay in the most prominent gully the whole way and you'll be on the right track. When it finally starts to get steep it will fork again, keep to the right. Also, if you're wondering if you should take your snowshoes or not, you should. There was a lot more snow in the gully than there was in the notch. We had a lot of fun, never thought I wouldn't be able to recognize Cannon cliff because it looked so small, "What the hell? Is that little dinky thing down there the Whitney-Gilman?" Feb 20, 2012
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
Just soloed it yesterday, and it was NOT fat like in the picture above. Definitely in the WI 4 range. There was at about 30 feet of dead vertical headwall where a lot of tool placements were hitting into the rock behind the ice. Up above the headwall it was as another reviewer remarked, "alpine perfection" up until the ridge. What was a nasty rainstorm down below was a serious snowblast with high winds up in the mountains. This is a definite must do for any NE alpinist, but if the ice looks really thin, be careful, it probably is!! It looks like there was a nice little mixed variation at a lower grade just left of the main flow which can link back up with the low angle finish up to the summit. Dec 19, 2012
Matt Clifton
Berkeley, CA
Matt Clifton   Berkeley, CA
Climbed this on November 29th, 2013. Approach had lite snow and ice covered boulders. There are a few short sections of easy ice down low that take you to the throat. The throat was thin (wi3) there was a thicker left option clocking in around wi4. Due to the thin conditions (and we were soloing) we opted to bypass to the left side. Fairly easy but very exposed ice, dirt, tree "route". Following that was more easy ice and snow to the ridge. Great views from the summit. Ok route, just a lot of hiking for only a little ice. Dec 7, 2013
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
You may want to only do this in early winter conditions. I saw a huge slab avalanche go down this gully. It is an avalanche chute once the snow builds. Nov 12, 2014
Derek Tremblay   NH
A torturous slog for a throwaway pitch. Dec 11, 2016

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