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Routes in North Face

Kharzang T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 345 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Gregory, Dee McEnery
Page Views: 166 total, 2/month
Shared By: ClimbFit on Dec 1, 2010
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3 Opinions

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Description

This is an easy multipitch route that you can do in 2 or 3 pitches depending on how much gear you bring and the length of your rope.

It follows up the obvious deep crack line in a sort of chimney. There are several great ledges to to rest on and set up as your belay station. This is a great route for beginners. It is a very easy route for experienced climber but is exciting and challenging for beginners. There is a great crack line for bomber placement the whole way up. The route also has a small amount of scrambling.

The route sees a small amount of attention and was not thoroughly cleaned, so expect lots of loose rocks.

Location

The route is about 30m to the right of the descent gully. There is a small tree/bush growing out of the crack where the start is.

Route number 1 one the topo.

Protection

This is a trad route. I suggest using double ropes if you have them, if not then you will still be ok. Please use your own judgment as what to bring on trad route. I recommend a few slings and a couple of long slings and a 20ft cord. You wont need anything bigger the a size 3 cam. The size three was used on the horizontal crack at the first ledge for the anchor/belay station. You will also need a 2-3 size two cams.
Saif
Portland, Oregon
  5.8-
Saif   Portland, Oregon
  5.8-
Found this route to be extremely tricky. I lead the first pitch which went as Vdiff. The route protected well but the moves were strenuous involving placing small gear in a Vertical but solid thin crack while bridging. At the top of the first pitch the route the anchor placements are terrible as the rock is very chossy in the vertical crack, then getting to pitch 2 involved short pitching over a very exposed 4th class traverse.


Its a decent climb probably worth checking out but I felt that this route was much probably better for a more intermediate leader despite the moderate grading. Jan 10, 2014