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> Turtle Rock - E Face
Ninja Turtle
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2 from 14
votes
Early Access
Routes in Turtle Rock - East Face
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'Nilla Wafer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Bisk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Blistering T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cornered T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Easy Day T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Give a Mouse a Cookie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hand in the Cookie Jar TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Luminous Breast T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Ninja Turtle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Pile In The Sky T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rehab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ripples T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sea Turtle variation T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Snapping Turtle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Touche Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Turtle Soup T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Wandering Tortoise T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.01109, -116.16637 |
| FA: | Bob & Yvonne Gaines, April 1993 |
| Page Views: | 1,728 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Scherneck on Nov 23, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Pitch 1: Start up a decent crack system that quickly ends and puts you onto juggy face moves. Climb past a series of horizontal cracks. A thin cruxy series of moves makes for a good finish up to the 2-bolt anchor.(5.8 PG13; 90-foot rappel)
Pitch 2: From the bolt anchor, traverse right on a vertical face, bop over a small overhang, then climb straight up a steep headwall to the top. (5.8 PG13)
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