Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Turtle Rock - East Face

'Nilla Wafer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bisk T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Blistering T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cornered T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Easy Day T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Give a Mouse a Cookie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ninja Turtle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pile In The Sky T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ripples T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Touche Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turtle Soup T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Wandering Tortoise T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Hank Levine and Fred Lytle, 1973
Page Views: 1,107 total, 9/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Jun 23, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

About 20" right of Bisk, climb a ramp/crack to a ledge, thn follow a steep chimney to the top.

Protection

Pro to 2.5".

Photos

SpencerB BB
Pasadena, CA
SpencerB BB   Pasadena, CA
I just lead the first pitch and was happy to find a two bolt anchor with chains, making it easy to rap off of P1. May 3, 2016
PG13 or worse without a 6" cam. Without at least a 5" cam, R or X. And I would rate that section 5.8.

If you do have a #6, the route is fun and well protected (maybe even without the #5). A #4 adds comfort at the top, though the climbing is easy there. Feb 21, 2016
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
  5.7
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
  5.7
It could be done in one pitch if pro is extended properly, however we did it in two. P2 is wide and a #6 Camalot or Big Bro would be helpful, but not required. I made it work with #4 and #5 Camalots. Nov 20, 2010