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Routes in "LT" - North-West Right

Bonzo T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dead Bird Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jitterbug T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shiban T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Thug Monkey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, TR, 83 ft
FA: John Gregory, Dee McEnery
Page Views: 44 total · 0/month
Shared By: ClimbFit on Nov 21, 2010
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Description

A fun and semi challenging trad route which will keep you guessing as to which way is the best way to go and place bomber gear.

The last three meters of the route would be the crux if you go strait up the flat face. There is a easier way up to the left but it is better to take the face strait on.

The other possible crux would be at the very base of crack once you get over the inset.

Location

The route is to the right of the chimney/crack that veers right. It starts just to the left of the first(smaller) inset, then veers right to the crack at the peek of the inset.

Protection

In the guide book this is labeled as a trad route. I climbed it trad and found TR anchors bolted at the top. I recommend climbing it trad if you are a trad climber

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