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Routes in "LT" - North-West Right

Bonzo T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dead Bird Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jitterbug T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shiban T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Thug Monkey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 83 ft
FA: John Gregory, Dee McEnery
Page Views: 37 total, 0/month
Shared By: ClimbFit on Nov 24, 2010
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Description

This is a pretty fun chimney to go up. It is narrow so there is lots of squeezing and squirming if you are a bigger.

There is lots to grab onto and lots of foot holds as well.

The hardest part about the chimney is coming out of it. There is a nice sloping ledge on the left side and a few big holes, jugs, on the right side.

Protection

This is a trad route but it also has TR anchors bolted above.

It is a nice wide crack/narrow chimney. There is a very nice crack in the very back to place gear, it is a tight squeeze though. There are few spots on the sides for bomber placement. I wouldn't worry about anyone taking a fall here though. It is a very easy route that you can nearly free climb.

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Ren
 
Ren  
 
I liked this route as a warm up. It was not challenging at all. Jan 2, 2011
ClimbFit
Dubai,
 
ClimbFit   Dubai,
 
This is a very easy climb you can free climb it and I practically did. I only put two pieces of gear in. Used as a warm-up route. Not strenuous at all. However the chimney is tight so there is a nice amount of squirming and wiggling up. Not many places for the best gear placement if you are a bigger person. There is a great crack in the back on the chimney but it was way to tight for me to get to to place gear. Dec 18, 2010