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Routes in Green Mt. Buttresses (GMB)

The Dark Pope S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
(A) Feetlips T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
(B) A Hint of Squirrel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
(C) The Imp of Nod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
(D) Grass Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
(F) Must Be Likin' Lichen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Anders Zway, Dominic Weinstock
Page Views: 877 total, 10/month
Shared By: James P. Hunter on Oct 14, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Awesome overhanging jug haul. There are two belay bolts since the gully you start in is quite steep. Getting to the first bolt is kinda exciting, but its on easy ground. Clip the first bolt and and get ready to fight the pump. The crux is about half way up. The holds on this route are just super unique and amazing.

This route is 2 pitches but the 5.10+ pitch has mussy hooks at the top and you can just clip and lower as a single pitch. Or you can clip the mussy and keep moving to a huge ledge where there is another set of belay bolts. Then follow the bolt line (5.9) over an awesome feature. From the last bolt move slightly right to the anchors, its run out here, but on easy ground.

Location

Park at San Padro pull out. Hop the wall and take the trail uphill. Fallow the trail till it forks. Go right up a switch back still moving uphill. When you get to a small saddle look left and fallow the trail to the top of the hill. When at the top of the hill walk South (right) on the ridge then dropping down a gully on your left. Then move in the small canyon between Vatican wall and riddler wall. The Dark Pope is on the far North end of the Vatican wall. See topos.

Protection

Bolts, Mussy Hooks

Photos

This is a really great route and despite being a bit of a hike I would take a friend out there to do it. Offhand I cannot think of any route on Mt. Lemmon at the grade that is this fun. Now that I know where the anchors are on top I would hike up to the top and rap in with a 70M rope. Could then finish the whole route or hike back to the top in 5 minutes. Thought it could use a bolt right above the anchors at the bottom and that the Mussy Hooks needed to be to the right which would keep the rope from rubbing so much while lowering someone. There is also a very scary chunk of rock that needs to be cleaned near the 2nd or 3rd bolt as it will take out the belayer. Jimbo and I were able to climb around it. Great route guys. Oct 19, 2010