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Routes in Green Mt. Buttresses (GMB)

The Dark Pope S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
(A) Feetlips T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
(B) A Hint of Squirrel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
(C) The Imp of Nod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
(D) Grass Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
(F) Must Be Likin' Lichen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 370 ft, 3 pitches
FA: JMw, JFx, Asher Sussman 9/2010
Page Views: 1,226 total · 14/month
Shared By: JMayhew on Oct 13, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

1. Stem the corner and follow the crack to where you can diagonal to another crack breaking the right side of a roof. Follow the corner to its end and belay on the ledge. (5.8 120’)

2. Shift belay to the back wall and climb up 15’ into a short squeeze chimney. Discontinuous cracks wander up to a nice belay ledge with a tree at the base of a short stem box. (This is to the right of a right-leaning orange corner and to the left of a major, steep gully/chimney.) (5.7+ 90’)

3. Stem up onto a beautiful, left-leaning green corner. At the end of the corner keep angling left and up onto a huge ledge. Continue up into a short crack on the final, easy headwall. A little left of the top of the crack you may see the 2-bolt anchor for Dark Pope that you can belay from, otherwise make your own. (5.7+ 160’)

Descent: Walk off back, then down left into gully to base of climb.

Location

Hike around the base of the Western Buttress then up along the east face to a small, flat open area with a grassy crack (Grass Crack 5.6) heading up from the right end of the ledge. The next weakness to the left starts as a short corner into a crack, a small roof, then a final corner. This is the climb.

Protection

A good selection of gear is handy.

Photos

Justin Headley
Tucson
 
Justin Headley   Tucson
 
This is a fun route that deserves more traffic. I've cleaned up the route and the approach a lot, and I'll continue to work on it in the future. I definitely recommend this route for someone looking for a fun mid-mountain trad adventure. From the San Pedro Vista parking lot, it's only about a 15-20 minute hike to the base. Branch off from the main trail at 32.39857,-110.68622 Sep 14, 2017
Kyle O
Tucson, AZ
 
Kyle O   Tucson, AZ
 
Stellar sidecountry climbing! The trail could really use some pruning though Jeff. ;) Mar 25, 2014
Amy W
Tucson, AZ
  5.8
Amy W   Tucson, AZ
  5.8
We had a BLAST on this route today! Nice rock, cool features, varied climbing and just an all-around spectacular area. It's hard to believe a climb like this exists within only a 20 minute hike from the highway! Mar 23, 2014
JMayhew
Tucson, AZ
 
JMayhew   Tucson, AZ
 
Hey David-- Tried to PM you. It sounds like you may have been right on the route. I added a better picture of the route-- you can't really see much of pitch 2.
I spent many hours on those fire-scarred, rain-washed slopes. I'm guessing you didn't catch the very start right from the switchback--I missed it several times myself in the beginning. I didn't want to build a huge cairn there, but if you spend a little time making sure you catch the start, which drops down a bit from that switchback, the rest of the way should fall into place. Let me know if you remember where you got off and maybe I can make it clearer.
Hope you had a good adventure anyway. Jul 31, 2011
David Lammers
Grand Junction, CO
 
David Lammers   Grand Junction, CO
 
After much hiking we found the route, approach beta was not helpful. First pitch was fun. Difficult to find the second half of the second pitch. After the short squeeze chimney at the start of pitch 2 we ended up angling up to the climber's right following the weakness. Belayed off a tree. I still am not sure where the route is supposed to go (there are a lot of orange and green cracks). I then made up a line to the summit of great (approx 5.9) trad which mostly protected well. If you get off route it is ok. Mar 31, 2011
JMayhew
Tucson, AZ
 
JMayhew   Tucson, AZ
 
Cool. We had a blast on it, too.
We were psyched to piece together a well-protected line all the way to the top. Just wish that green corner kept going for another 100 feet! Oct 16, 2010
Hey Jeff, Anders told me that this route was a must do and boy was he right. I loved it! The third pitch is just awesome. 3 stars in my book. Oct 14, 2010

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