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Routes in Sax Wall

0.1) Do You Think I'm Saxy? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
1) A Little Spicy!!! S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
2) Body and Soul T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
3) Morphine S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
4) Sax-a-holic S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5) Multiple SAX Partners S,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
6) No such THANG as Too Much Sax S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
7) Crack With No Name T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,168 total · 12/month
Shared By: Dreez on Oct 14, 2010
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Above walls is private property so unless you want to tangle with railroad lawyers, maintain low profile. Details

Description

Trad climb crack that starts on far right and traverses left to middle of wall. Excellent trad crack that sucks gear. Great holds and feet. Some overhangs with big holds. Finish at birch tree in middle of wall.

Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear
if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez

Location

Route 7, Starts on right side of Sax Wall

Protection

Singles of BD #.3-#1 and a #4 for the top. Can clip bolts if you are really scared.
Ben Egelske
St. Paul
  5.9
Ben Egelske   St. Paul
  5.9
This is a difficult lead for novice trad climbers. The two shelves have minimal protection unless you have small gear or use the bolts. Next to that the route is supper fun with a mix of everything including traverses, face climbing, lie-backs, and cracks. Had a hard time placing nuts I would trust, highly recommend cams for this one. Sep 26, 2015

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