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Routes in Sax Wall

0.1) Do You Think I'm Saxy? S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
1) A Little Spicy!!! S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
2) Body and Soul T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
3) Morphine S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
4) Sax-a-holic S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5) Multiple SAX Partners S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
6) No such THANG as Too Much Sax S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
7) Crack With No Name T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

West facing great for winter climbing on warmer days with sun. In summer better to start in morning and bring bug spray of course. Great collection of 5.9's, 10's and one 11. All routes are accessible from the top so they can be TR'd. To gain access to the top anchors, approach is 50 yards to the right next to Drill Hole Wall.

If leading, beware of multiple ledges to avoid ankle injuries.

You can climb on Diagonals and Sax walls in the winter when it is 40 degrees or higher on a sunny day no wind. Diagonals faces south and Sax faces west. Sax comes into the sun at 12:30pm. It is a little Dutch Oven sheltered from the wind. Enjoy! almost year round....




Above walls is private property so unless you want to tangle with railroad lawyers, maintain low profile. Details

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sax Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Dreez  
Originally I had fixed gear in place so the kids would not steal the gear. So I didn't want anyone to rap on them because it was a bitch to replace. Now with the steel biners and quicklinked hangers, they are all replaceable so feel free to rap on them.

Just no drytooling on the gear, use webbing like the old days. May 21, 2016
adamD  
Saw a lot of people lowering off the anchors, and had a few discussions about whether that's OK - The consensus there seemed to be that where there are new steel biners on the ends of the chains, this was the intended use. 1) because the steel will last 10x longer than the aluminum ones seen elsewhere/previously at Sandstone, and 2) because they are replacable, no one will ever have to re bolt the entire anchor to fix a worn-out biner.

Is this the consensus here, or did the few folks that I spoke with simply think they had the right logic, but did not speak for everybody? May 26, 2015
Be aware of the potential for ledge falls on these retro-bolted routes. If you are aspiring to lead a given grade, then start at other crags, gain wisdom on detecting risk, honestly weighing chance of fall versus skill and fitness, how to mitigate for risk and in developing a clear, strong, committed head. Otherwise, if the current bolt locations don't change, be prepared for a visit to the hospital if you fall and the crag getting closed. Sorry, this isn't meant to be spray/negative/accusitory - it's meant to warn newer climbers of a risk that might not currently be appreciated. Apr 25, 2011

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