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Routes in Sax Wall

0.1) Do You Think I'm Saxy? S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
1) A Little Spicy!!! S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
2) Body and Soul T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
3) Morphine S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
4) Sax-a-holic S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5) Multiple SAX Partners S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
6) No such THANG as Too Much Sax S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
7) Crack With No Name T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: FA Unknown. FFA Joe Mueller
Page Views: 2,556 total, 29/month
Shared By: Dreez on Oct 11, 2010
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Above walls is private property so unless you want to tangle with railroad lawyers, maintain low profile. Details

Description

Start below bolt and go over bolt and straight up using small hand holds above bolt. From first ledge go straight up over bolts. When get to cave, use left side of cave only, stay to immediate right of bolts. Climb over the bolts at the end, can use arete.

Named for a band called Morphine with a great sax section

Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear
if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez

Location

Route 3, 3rd route on right of wall

Protection

6 bolts

Equipped by Michael Endrizzi and Joe Mueller
Fun stuff!

My daughter noticed some small loose rocks on ledges one and two, mostly on the left side of the route. Jun 8, 2013
Eldon Krosch Jr.  
  5.9
This was a great 5.9 route from top to bottom. A bit of a crux near the second to last clip before the rings.

Be careful clipping the final bolt before the rings I took a fall while clipping and hit the ledge below the previous clip. I didn't hit it very hard but both feet slammed into the ledge on the long fall.

Other than that none of the other clips seemed to pose much risk outside of the normal falling risk you take anytime you lead sport. It was a quick fun route and great for a aspiring 5.9 sport leader to get some laps in on. May 27, 2013