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3) Morphine

5.9, Sport, TR, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 111 votes
FA: FA Unknown. FFA Joe Mueller
Minnesota > Sandstone > Robinson Park > Sax Wall
Warning Access Issue: Above walls is private property so unless you want to tangle with railroad lawyers, maintain low profile. DetailsDrop down

Description

Start below bolt and go over bolt and straight up using small hand holds above bolt. From first ledge go straight up over bolts. When get to cave, use left side of cave only, stay to immediate right of bolts. Climb over the bolts at the end, can use arete.

Named for a band called Morphine with a great sax section

Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear
if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez

Location

Route 3, 3rd route on right of wall

Protection

6 bolts

Equipped by Michael Endrizzi and Joe Mueller

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Beginning of Morphine (pc Jake Steinberg)
[Hide Photo] Beginning of Morphine (pc Jake Steinberg)
Route 3
[Hide Photo] Route 3
Clipping on Morphine... What a smooth and flowy 5.9! All MN climbers should run a lap up this line.
<br>
Photo: Tyler Porter
[Hide Photo] Clipping on Morphine... What a smooth and flowy 5.9! All MN climbers should run a lap up this line. Photo: Tyler Porter
Tucker L finding holds for the final ledge mantle
[Hide Photo] Tucker L finding holds for the final ledge mantle
Toproping Morphine
[Hide Photo] Toproping Morphine
Morphine
<br>
-Taken:Roland S
[Hide Photo] Morphine -Taken:Roland S
Slab Bear sending morphine
<br>
-Taken: Todd Struckman
[Hide Photo] Slab Bear sending morphine -Taken: Todd Struckman
Todd psyching up for the next 2/3rds of Morphine
<br>
-Taken: Roland S
[Hide Photo] Todd psyching up for the next 2/3rds of Morphine -Taken: Roland S
Fun little spot on this climb
[Hide Photo] Fun little spot on this climb
Renne starting up Morphine on a balmy February day.
[Hide Photo] Renne starting up Morphine on a balmy February day.
rope set on Morphine
[Hide Photo] rope set on Morphine
Rylee charging past the first bolt.
[Hide Photo] Rylee charging past the first bolt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Eldon Krosch Jr.
Duluth, MN
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This was a great 5.9 route from top to bottom. A bit of a crux near the second to last clip before the rings.

Be careful clipping the final bolt before the rings I took a fall while clipping and hit the ledge below the previous clip. I didn't hit it very hard but both feet slammed into the ledge on the long fall.

Other than that none of the other clips seemed to pose much risk outside of the normal falling risk you take anytime you lead sport. It was a quick fun route and great for a aspiring 5.9 sport leader to get some laps in on. May 27, 2013
[Hide Comment] Fun stuff!

My daughter noticed some small loose rocks on ledges one and two, mostly on the left side of the route. Jun 8, 2013
silky mitts
  5.9 PG13
[Hide Comment] As Eldon said - the crux is just before the last bolt before the rings and the fall is 10-15 feet to a fairly large ledge that you will be guaranteed to hit. It’s been a year since I climbed it but could probably protect it with a .5 cam or so to keep your legs unharmed. This is a fun line Jun 18, 2020
Alex W
Bloomington, MN
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] Some nice jams at the top of this one =) Jul 9, 2021