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Routes in Sax Wall

0.1) Do You Think I'm Saxy? S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
1) A Little Spicy!!! S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
2) Body and Soul T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
3) Morphine S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
4) Sax-a-holic S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
5) Multiple SAX Partners S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
6) No such THANG as Too Much Sax S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
7) Crack With No Name T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: FA Unknown. FFA Jeff Engels
Page Views: 1,091 total, 12/month
Shared By: Dreez on Oct 11, 2010
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Above walls is private property so unless you want to tangle with railroad lawyers, maintain low profile. Details

Description

"
For start, right of bolt in the angling right crack.From the first ledge go up to immedge right of bolts to finger ledges.From second ledge, go up finger holds up the panels and use finger holds on right and left of panel, and then do layback at top. Clipping the bolt is a bit of a stretch but can be done if you get your feet high enough. Use long draw too. Last panel, go up same panel where bolt is, can't use holds on left or right. Tall man reach to get to hand ledge. Above the bolt go straight up the final panel, use half moon tiny old, very slopy, use drill holes for feet."


Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear
if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez

Location

Second route from left. Route 5

Protection

6 bolts

Equipped by Michael Endrizzi and Joe Mueller

Photos

Dreez
 
Dreez  
 
I bolt protected the crux. 3 bolts are now 2 feet apart Oct 18, 2015
jack powers
St. Paul, Mn
jack powers   St. Paul, Mn
I recommend that the first-time leader of this route first climb the 10a to the left that shares anchors with this route and put the draws in while being lowered from the 10a. If you don't do this and you aren't very tall, you'll have to pull the crux without having first clipped the crux-protecting bolt while looking at an ankle buster onto the ledge below. One move wonder, but pretty cool. PG-13. Jul 12, 2014