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Routes in The Training Grounds

Beginner's Luck S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
First Blood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Learning Curve S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Passing the Baton S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Practice Run S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Too Much Nooky, Not Enough Sleep S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whole Lotta Sober T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mike Lane's bolts, Tod Anderson's anchors?
Page Views: 1,774 total · 18/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Oct 12, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

Follow the 2nd bolt line from the right. Short cruxes are encountered at the overhangs which are easier if tall (still fun for the small though). Head up the face aiming for the center of a small arch. The yellow lichen bulge is the first difficulty, then pull over the arch onto really cool chicken heads, and head up and slightly right to a shared anchor. Clipping the anchor is probably the real crux, since everything is a little sloping and insecure (compared to all the in-cut holds to which you are now accustomed)....

Location

This is the 2nd bolt line from the right.

Protection

Bolts, 2 bolt anchor (one Metolius rap hanger and one cold shut).

Photos

Jake Barney
Denver, CO
 
Jake Barney   Denver, CO
 
Very fun, well-protected climb except the move to clip the anchor which is the crux for taller folks (shorter folks may find the 2nd roof more challenging). May want to scope it out from the 5.6 to the left if you don't feel very solid on 5.8. Aug 23, 2015

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