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Routes in The Training Grounds

Beginner's Luck S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
First Blood T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Learning Curve S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Passing the Baton S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Practice Run S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thunder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Too Much Nooky, Not Enough Sleep S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whole Lotta Sober T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mike Lane
Page Views: 3,040 total · 31/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Oct 12, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


78 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

This one starts on the slab just right of Passing the Baton. The crux is the roof, but it is turned on monster handlebar holds. You can kick your feet loose here for fun. The rock above the roof is well featured with "alligator skin" holds, and the climbing here is super fun.

Location

This is the bolted route in the center of the wall. It turns the roof just left of a right-facing arch. Descend from the anchor on Passing the Baton.

Protection

8 bolts. Shares an anchor with Passing the Baton.

Photos

percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.6
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.6
The chickenheads on the upper part of this wall are NOT to be missed. If you are a 5.11+ climber, do it in your sandals, tennis shoes muck-lucks, if you need it harder, but DO it. If you are a trad climber, bring a small rack and a bunch of slings to "choke the chickens" at the top. This one is a G-rated trad climb! Jun 27, 2011
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Fun route, but the crux move is definitely harder than 5.6 for shorter climbers because they cannot reach the jugs overhead. Otherwise it's all very straightforward climbing. Jul 28, 2012
I am new to this area and need some direction on how to get to Beginner's Luck. Mar 4, 2018
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.6
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.6
You can't get to it now as the road is closed until late May. Mar 4, 2018

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