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Routes in Bridge area

Electric Butterfly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost Dog T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Derek Franz
Page Views: 734 total, 8/month
Shared By: D-Storm on Oct 4, 2010
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Two arete-slapping boulder problems separated by a ledge define this route, which is a little steeper than it looks from the trail on the opposite side of the creek.

Three bolts supplement gear placements, and there are chains on top.

The second boulder problem is much easier than the first, but might have ledge-fall potential if you blow it at the chains and there's too much slack in the system. At that point, though, it's possible to clip or grab the chains, which are hanging in your face. And if you climbed through the first crux, you'll likely be fine there anyway.

The clipping positions are all reasonable, though the crux clip might be hard to find onsight.

Here's some beta for pulling the rope and keeping it out of the water: pull it from the opposite side of the creek and give it a good snap just before the end drops from the chains. Make sure people aren't walking up behind you as you do this, or they might get an unwanted lesson in BDSM.

Location

This route climbs the obvious arete that rises straight out of the creek 60 feet left (upstream) of "Electric Butterfly." When the creek is running low, it's easily crossed to the base of the climb. Belay on cobble stones in an alcove to the right of the arete. There's a belay bolt to help keep your partner from going into the water.

Protection

In addition to quickdraws, bring finger-sized cams and stoppers from a #0 Metolious TCU to 1 inch. A #3 Camalot isn't necessary but provides some confidence for a hard move. Save the purple Metolius and a long runner for after the crux.

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S Denny
Aspen, CO
S Denny   Aspen, CO
Yeah, buddy! Such a sick line, way to go, Derek. Oct 8, 2010
Nice one, Derek. D-Stizzy, in the Hizzy! Oct 5, 2010
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
Nice, Derek. I've looked at that line for a long time. Always cool to see people psyched on our local stuff. Oct 5, 2010
D-Storm
 
D-Storm  
 
On a sentimental note, I've been looking at this line since I was in high school 10 years ago. Oct 4, 2010