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Routes in Bridge area

Electric Butterfly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost Dog T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,763 total, 11/month
Shared By: Bryan Gall on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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26 Opinions

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Description

Electric Butterfly is the corner to a roof located right of the green shed next to the bridge crossing No Name Creek. An electric wire to the left of the climb provides the name. Start in the corner with good jams under the roof. Traverse right under the roof using a horizontal crack. Climb up the widening crack to the anchors. Numerous boulder problems may be done near the base of this climb. A fun tyrolean can be set on top of this buttress across the road and creek to another broken buttress.

Protection

Standard granite rack.
Fun climb. Last time I did it it was infested with those big spiders that love waterfalls. Aug 20, 2017
Mitchell Colby
  5.8+
Mitchell Colby  
  5.8+
Love this route. A friend told me if you keep both strands of the rope wedged in the flake while toproping you'll swing out perfectly missing the shack and the cliff if you were to blow it early. Super fun lead as well! Aug 23, 2016
Jay Austin
  5.9
Jay Austin  
  5.9
This is a great climb with some interesting moves, felt more like a 5.9 to me with an awkward flake in the middle of the climb. May 18, 2012
PTZ
Chicago/Colorado
PTZ   Chicago/Colorado
It is a good toprope of you climb straight up. It's stiffer but the plumb line. Otherwise, you climb the back wet corner and can go for a bad swing if you fall out. This was one of my first few gear leads. Apr 5, 2012
Nick Broeder
Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.9-
Nick Broeder   Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.9-
I'm sorry to say this is a horrible route to top rope. If you go look at the corner of the little shack 3 feet from the wall in between the creek, there is a huge dent from some person top roping and falling and swinging right into the shack. It makes too much of a swing in the beginning, and it is dangerous, just lead it. Sep 4, 2011
This is a great top rope route. Set it up by going up the right of the rock formation, walk toward the anchors behind the top of the rocks and scramble down through the crack to a big ledge to set the rope. The crux move from the flake into the chimney is challenging. Rating - definitely felt like a 5.9- on the crux move. Good fun. Aug 2, 2005
This is a fun climb and makes for a great top rope. I once told someone who was about to climb it, it was 5.8. Afterwards he told me he thought I sandbagged it pretty hard and that it was 5.9. I would rate it either 8+ or 9- on the crux move in between after topping the flake above the horizontal crack and chimneying the crack to the shelf. The power line hanging a few feet away from the rock looks sketchy as if you could swing into it, however, it is in fact a safe distance, and you should not come close to it regardless. Apr 20, 2004