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Routes in Snowshed Wall

Aerial S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Alvin's Route (TR) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bell Bottom Blues T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bottomless Topless T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brain Child S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Break Out T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bypass T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cannibals S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Composure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Conform or Be Cast Out S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Crack of the Eighties T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Death Tongue S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Devaluation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devaluation Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Disciples Of the New Wave T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Drop Out Left T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drop Out Right T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Farewell to Arms T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hair Lip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hair Shirt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair and Now S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jam Session T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Karl's Gym T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Little Feat S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Manic Depression T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Missing Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Molar Concentration T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mole's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey Paws T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Night Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nova Express T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
On The Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Palsy T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Panic in Detroit T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pea Soup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peter Principle T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pump Lust S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rage Reduction T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rapid Transit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Reductio ad absurdum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rick and Eric's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sanitation Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Side Effect T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Split Pea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Telegraph Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thing, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Fingers Gold T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Welcome to My Nightmare T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,985 total, 34/month
Shared By: Aerili on Sep 28, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

A short but beautiful almost laser-cut corner with a small roof to finish. This route would be classic if it was 2-3 times longer.

Location

To the right of Telegraph Crack and directly up the hill from Nova Express. Rap anchors located just above the roof.

Edited by OP 8/2014: There have ALWAYS been Metolius rap hangers on this route for as long as I've known. All these misleading route notes about the existence/nonexistence of rap anchors on this route are posted by people who clearly don't recognize this type of hardware. That is all.

Protection

Gear to 2" possible. Expect this route to be more "in your face" for the grade than Telegraph Crack.

Photos

DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
  5.8+
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
  5.8+
I led this yesterday and found it a little more stout than it looked from the ground. The problem for me was placing pro without taking up my hand and finger jams. Delicate moves and a fun roof at the end make this worth doing. Jun 15, 2014
marc g
San Francisco, CA
 
marc g   San Francisco, CA
 
+1 to what spandex said. spot on Sep 7, 2013
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
A stubby specimen. The ladies wish it were longer. Not very taxing with good technique (i.e. a minimum of liebacking), but pretty fun after a bit of Morse code.

BTW: Those huge, thick ass metolius hangers are what you rap off. I wouldn't lower but a rap is fine through those. Aug 25, 2013
Jared-EMS
Sacramento, CA
 
Jared-EMS   Sacramento, CA
 
Route is only 40' but worth it. If it was 50'+ or longer, it would be crawling with crack addicts all day. Jul 29, 2013
Spandex Jesionek
East Bay, CA
  5.8+
Spandex Jesionek   East Bay, CA
  5.8+
Though short, a persistent dihedral with delicate footwork, especially for the grade. I believe I placed a BD .4, .5, a 2 deeper in 3/4 of the way up or so, and a .75 or 1 for the roof, which is cake with a jug a short reach away. True: at least 2 or 3 times longer and this would be really something. The stemming moves are really awesome for how brief the route is.

Conditions: I did this 6/2/13 and there were no rap rings; I lowered off two draws to clean, then hiked up 4th and easy 5th on the right side to retrieve draws. Jul 4, 2013
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
Agreed with description. If this was longer it would be on par with something like Perfect Lieback in woodfords canyon. Really cool movements in the corner. Protects well. Sep 23, 2012