Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,432 total · 34/month
Shared By: Aerili on Sep 28, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


100 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

A short but beautiful almost laser-cut corner with a small roof to finish. This route would be classic if it was 2-3 times longer.

Location

To the right of Telegraph Crack and directly up the hill from Nova Express. Rap anchors located just above the roof.

Edited by OP 8/2014: There have ALWAYS been Metolius rap hangers on this route for as long as I've known. All these misleading route notes about the existence/nonexistence of rap anchors on this route are posted by people who clearly don't recognize this type of hardware. That is all.

Protection

Gear to 2" possible. Expect this route to be more "in your face" for the grade than Telegraph Crack.

Photos

Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
Agreed with description. If this was longer it would be on par with something like Perfect Lieback in woodfords canyon. Really cool movements in the corner. Protects well. Sep 23, 2012
Spandex Jesionek
East Bay, CA
  5.8+
Spandex Jesionek   East Bay, CA
  5.8+
Though short, a persistent dihedral with delicate footwork, especially for the grade. I believe I placed a BD .4, .5, a 2 deeper in 3/4 of the way up or so, and a .75 or 1 for the roof, which is cake with a jug a short reach away. True: at least 2 or 3 times longer and this would be really something. The stemming moves are really awesome for how brief the route is.

Conditions: I did this 6/2/13 and there were no rap rings; I lowered off two draws to clean, then hiked up 4th and easy 5th on the right side to retrieve draws. Jul 4, 2013
Jared-EMS
Sacramento, CA
 
Jared-EMS   Sacramento, CA
 
Route is only 40' but worth it. If it was 50'+ or longer, it would be crawling with crack addicts all day. Jul 29, 2013
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
A stubby specimen. The ladies wish it were longer. Not very taxing with good technique (i.e. a minimum of liebacking), but pretty fun after a bit of Morse code.

BTW: Those huge, thick ass metolius hangers are what you rap off. I wouldn't lower but a rap is fine through those. Aug 25, 2013
marc g
San Francisco, CA
 
marc g   San Francisco, CA
 
+1 to what spandex said. spot on Sep 7, 2013
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
  5.8+
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
  5.8+
I led this yesterday and found it a little more stout than it looked from the ground. The problem for me was placing pro without taking up my hand and finger jams. Delicate moves and a fun roof at the end make this worth doing. Jun 15, 2014
Eric Leonard
oakland california
 
Eric Leonard   oakland california
 
Cool climb to run laps on top rope after rapping from telegraph crack. Jul 23, 2018
Matt Adler  
 
Use this route's anchor to top rope delicate slab route (notice bolts pulled) just left of this. Jul 23, 2018