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Routes in East Face

Brain Child S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cannibals S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Conform or Be Cast Out S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Death Tongue S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Drop Out Left T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drop Out Right T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Farewell to Arms T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Feat S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Missing Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mole's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Night Gallery aka Rick and Eric's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Nova Express T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pump Lust S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rage Reduction T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Reductio ad absurdum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sanitation Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Side Effect T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Telegraph Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Welcome to My Nightmare T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,216 total · 34/month
Shared By: Aerili on Sep 28, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Access Notes Details

Description

A short but beautiful almost laser-cut corner with a small roof to finish. This route would be classic if it was 2-3 times longer.

Location

To the right of Telegraph Crack and directly up the hill from Nova Express. Rap anchors located just above the roof.

Edited by OP 8/2014: There have ALWAYS been Metolius rap hangers on this route for as long as I've known. All these misleading route notes about the existence/nonexistence of rap anchors on this route are posted by people who clearly don't recognize this type of hardware. That is all.

Protection

Gear to 2" possible. Expect this route to be more "in your face" for the grade than Telegraph Crack.

Photos

Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
Agreed with description. If this was longer it would be on par with something like Perfect Lieback in woodfords canyon. Really cool movements in the corner. Protects well. Sep 23, 2012
Spandex Jesionek
East Bay, CA
  5.8+
Spandex Jesionek   East Bay, CA
  5.8+
Though short, a persistent dihedral with delicate footwork, especially for the grade. I believe I placed a BD .4, .5, a 2 deeper in 3/4 of the way up or so, and a .75 or 1 for the roof, which is cake with a jug a short reach away. True: at least 2 or 3 times longer and this would be really something. The stemming moves are really awesome for how brief the route is.

Conditions: I did this 6/2/13 and there were no rap rings; I lowered off two draws to clean, then hiked up 4th and easy 5th on the right side to retrieve draws. Jul 4, 2013
Jared-EMS
Sacramento, CA
 
Jared-EMS   Sacramento, CA
 
Route is only 40' but worth it. If it was 50'+ or longer, it would be crawling with crack addicts all day. Jul 29, 2013
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
A stubby specimen. The ladies wish it were longer. Not very taxing with good technique (i.e. a minimum of liebacking), but pretty fun after a bit of Morse code.

BTW: Those huge, thick ass metolius hangers are what you rap off. I wouldn't lower but a rap is fine through those. Aug 25, 2013
marc g
San Francisco, CA
 
marc g   San Francisco, CA
 
+1 to what spandex said. spot on Sep 7, 2013
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
  5.8+
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
  5.8+
I led this yesterday and found it a little more stout than it looked from the ground. The problem for me was placing pro without taking up my hand and finger jams. Delicate moves and a fun roof at the end make this worth doing. Jun 15, 2014

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