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Routes in Left

A Walk in the Park S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Awareness Drooling S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Corroding Through Nocturnal Silk S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dew Claw S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Euphoric Nothingness S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Incessant Wounds Still Ebbing in the Gloom Embers Bright S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quarry-ography S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Troublicious T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Route S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
When Angels Dress in Closets Deep S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Sport, 20 ft
FA: Dale Fleshman, Curtis Gibson
Page Views: 506 total · 5/month
Shared By: Conor Byrne on Sep 27, 2010 with updates from Laurel Fan
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Bouldery start on "Dew Claw" feature. Follow direct line up face. Book says "good climb for the aspiring 5.11 climber"

Location

Left side (west end) of Riverview Park

Protection

5 Bolts

Photos

Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
  5.11b
Tiffany Samson   Seattle, WA
  5.11b
Getting to the first bolt is easy. Bomber undercling horn and undercling block for right. 2nd bolt is really close to the first, fortunately, as this is where the crux is. Need good technique and body positioning on this one. You're safe falling from the first bolt - my feet just barely hit the ground after fumbling the 2nd clip with slack out. Some swing on falls. Hard catches may result in rope burn, soft catch may result in landing on belayer. I experienced all of this while at my limit. Good sloper practice. Some fun balancey footwork traversing back right. Then more slopers. After that go left and up and there are great hands and the climbing eases. Particularly from 4th bolt to anchor is like 5.6 because of the blocks out left. In the book this is an 11b, which I think is accurate compared to other routes in the 11a-b range at Vantage lower walls and Smith and how technical it is from the 1st to 3rd bolts, which seems in line with 11b Frank Black. Although this is very much a bouldering problem and since that is my nemesis maybe that’s why it’s harder for me. May 21, 2018

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