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Routes in Right Side

Black Belt Internet Spray Masters S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bob is Real S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Camazonia T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Creation of Tranquility, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crescendo of the Sarcophagus Breeding S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Far Point Station S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Masticate Expectorate S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Newton Chips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Oh Coulee, Oh Coulee S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Move Blunder S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Drill Rules, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rio Vista S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Spring Loaded S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Weep Holes on a Sill S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Jim Yoder, Lucky Gibson, Sept. 2000
Page Views: 135 total · 2/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Feb 10, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Boulder start, sloper holds, fun lay-back pull around corner and open book at top.
A bit PG rated for pulling up to ledge, ground fall potential.

Location

right of Camazonia, left of Black Belt.

Protection

5 bolts, chain anchor

Photos

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Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
  5.10d
Tiffany Samson   Seattle, WA
  5.10d
This route is fun b/c it's varied. I recommend stick clipping first bolt as it’s a boulder start and it starts on top of rocks. I felt like this was the crux of the climb. Bomber first hold on the right. Getting to the 2nd bolt is fine. Clipping the 3rd bolt is really awkward using a pincher or sloper hold. Downclimb and move out right. Use big sidepull to sidepull to great ledge. Catch your breath. For the 4th bolt above the ledge, use an alpine draw b/c a regular quickdraw might sit on the edge of the rock and cause the gate to open (although I think this will only happen after clipping the 5th bolt). Great resting on the ledge. Then in the open book clip the last bolt getting feet up a bit. The crack is unnecessary, even though it looks cool. Then move over left on seemingly untouched rock that is high friction with easy climbing to the anchor. This was harder and more physical than 5.11a Killer Lob. However, it is a chossy route that doesn't get climbed much; loose rock will rain down on the belayer. Neither my partner nor I thought there was decking potential at the 3rd bolt as the book & description above states. Oct 8, 2018

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