Avg: 3.5 from 44 votes
|Type:||Trad, 8 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||16,976 total · 139/month|
|Shared By:||Dave Daly on Sep 8, 2010|
|Admins:||M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Some feel the first pitch is the crux pitch. It is one of the highlight pitches of South Face. Start by leaving the belay by following a slanting crack up and to the right, passing a tree that is in the same crack. Once past the tree, move out right and then up onto the face. Climb past a detached flake and up to a small footledge with good pro nearby (small to medium nuts or cams). Continue up and slightly left to an obvious hand crack (pro to #2 Camelot). Climb this crack (5.8-) for 40 feet, which eventually eases up and ends at a triangle shaped corner with a nice flat ledge. Belay here.
From the triangle ledge. head straight up a left facing corner. The first gear placement is 15 feet off the belay but the climbing is superb (5.6). It may appear harder at first but the holds show up when you need them. A combination of stemming, friction and crack climbing is the right combination to lead to the top of the corner, which has a flat ledge. Continue above this ledge on open slab. Although runout, the climbing gets no harder than 5.6. Trend up and right toward a large boulder. Belay at the boulder (large gear...#1 and bigger).
This is truly a thankless pitch but a short one, which tops out on Big Ledge (be extra careful there....many pointed cactus!). From the boulder, move out right for 30 feet and then around the corner and up left. Locate clear ledges and rock outcroppings. Traverse back left and head toward a clearing on the left. Belay in the clearing to reduce rope drag.
One may opt to move the belay higher or belay here. The recommendation and better choice to prevent rope drag, unrope here and locate boulder with a roof over it's top. Climb this boulder (a few V0- moves) to its top and pass underneath the roof. If wearing a pack, it presents an awkward and ungraceful top out. Once on top, locate a 10 foot chimney. Scramble the chimney (low 5th) to another small clearing. Rope up again to finsih the remaining 70 feet, by climbing a series of slabs and ledges. Head toward the base of a green lichen streaked wall. Belay at a slanting ledge.
The Glory Pitch!! Certainly another highlight to the South Face route. From the slanting ledge, climb out to the left for 10 feet and then slightly up and right on knobs (some tieoffs) but easy and enjoyable climbing (5.6). Head upward to where the roof on the face above comes to a point above the knobs (good gear, pro to 1/2"). As the climbing steeps, climb just past the "point" and move out left. Exposed and exhilirating climbing on knobs (5.7+)!! A finger crack provides ample protection. Continue up and above to the left until the crack peters out. Make an exposed move out toward two large crack/chimney systems. Upon reaching the crack/chimney system, move to the left most crack and up into the crack 25 feet further. Locate a one person ledge on the right and belay from here. ([u]Caution[/u]: this is a full rope length pitch...200 feet plus! Take care in protecting those that follow with an adequate supply of slings.)
This is a short pitch (90'). Continue up the crack/chimney system, passing a chockstone along the way. Upon surmounting the chockstone (5.6), move up and right to a nice ledge. Locate the only 2 bolts of the route on this ledge. Belay here.
Get ready to have fun! This ia a slightly runout slab section (2 lead bolts and small cams) but provides amazing views of the great Western Divide and the Castle Rock area. Climb directly above the belay bolts, passing two new bolts on sustained 5.6/5.7 slab. Additionally, there are pro opportunities about 50 feet off the belay (3/8" Alien) in a thin left slanting crack. Above the slab are two possible ways to go. One may opt to move up right onto a wild and exposed knob covered face (5.9) and head straight up. Or head up and left, climbing a left facing corner. The pro is small but the holds are there. Shoukld you choose to later of the two choices, climb this left slanting corner up for 60 feet to where a crack appears on the right, which continues up and right. Belay here at the intersetion of the corner and the crack.
Climb the crack that leads right and continues till in becomes a slanting ledge that ends at chimney. Climb the holds on the outside of chimney to a larger ledge up and to the right. Low 5th class. Once at the ledge, the remaining section of the South Face become 3rd class (600 ft). Top out on the tourist observation deck on top of Moro Rock.
When done, take the stairs back to the parking lot.