Looking down the meat of P1

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Looking down the meat of P1

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We started out the day with perfect weather and by the end an unforecasted heavy (and chilly!) fog rolled in. Finished the last 3 pitches in complete whiteness. Even with fog the scrambling was very mild and mostly 3rd class.

Paul Bischoff on the traverse at the top of pitch 5.

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Richard Shore

Sep 15, 2014

“Looking down the meat of P1”

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Rob Beno following the fantastic P5

Crazy day climbing the south face across from one of three lightning fires in the park. Park closed later this day.

Nice views! Besides the dork in the way. I think at the top of the 5th pitch

Do this to avoid bush-whacking on jungle ledge. This is the "boulder problem" in the description

P4 following the traverse into the big crack

A lovely climb. Jungle ledge seen below.

Top of p1, yum

We started out the day with perfect weather and by the end an unforecasted heavy (and chilly!) fog rolled in. Finished the last 3 pitches in complete whiteness. Even with fog the scrambling was very mild and mostly 3rd class.

Looking down the meat of P1

Paul Bischoff on the traverse at the top of pitch 5.

The pitch above the Jungle Ledge and your way out there!<br>
http://southernsierraclimber.blogspot.com/

Getting close to the start when you see the golden egg!

Greg follows pitch 5 of the south face moro rock

Bryan near the top of the knobby wall on pitch 5.

start of the South Face

I drew this topo from memory - it should be enough to get you were you need to go though particular details might be a little off (such as the meandering pitches 3 and 4). From the start of South Cracks to the base of the South Face involves horrible schwacking for those 75 yards along the base of the cliff. Excellent route. Make sure you say something clever at the top to your partner..."That's the last time I let you hold my camera over the edge!" or "At least I got my sunglasses back!" <br>
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Nuts, a purple and blue metolius, doubles .3 to #1, and one #2 and #3 are perfect. Bring about 10 runners and a couple double lengths. pitches 4 and 5 require a 70m rope to belay where we did. You can belay on the ledge below the knobs on pitch 4 if you only brought a 60m.

Chris on the pitch one traverse. Picture taken from the bench were we began the roped climbing There used to be a tree right about where he is. No longer there.

Looking down the 4th class approach. Photo taken from the manzanita on the bench where we started the roped climbing.

Rob Beno leading P6 (per description) of the South Face

Paul Bischoff approaches the crux on pitch one.

The no joke approach.

Went off route. Accidentally climbed the knobs to a small laybacking crack. Slung a knob and ran it out to the tree. Might be able to get a .3-.5 in the laybacking crack. Cousin and I came to the conclusion 5.10c pg13 possibly R due to landing on ramp.

Great views of the Western Divide.

Stepping into the big crack on P4

The last 30'. Just above the knobs on the last pitch 5.9 variation.

At the top of p3 i believe. Looking up, just to the right of this photo is the boulder problem. Above and left in the photo you can see part of the fantastic p5 and part of p6.

P1 crack

the South Face of Moro Rock.

Brian on p4