Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft
FA: Norman Clyde
Page Views: 11,651 total · 99/month
Shared By: Davi Rivas on Aug 2, 2010 with improvements by Jeremy in Laguna
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

There are a variety of ways to access this route. The route I used starts from the moraine that splits the Middle Palisade glacier. Up and to your right is a somewhat horizontal band of red rock. Cross the 'schrund and follow the red band till you've climbed into a large gully. Careful, lots of loose rock on the band. Once in the gully, go straight up on great class 3/4 rock past the first gendarme (on your left)to a split in the gully. Keep to the left and continue climbing to the top of the gully and the summit ridge. About 100ft to your left is the true summit. Climb down the same way you came up.

See comments below for the correct and easier start.

"One of the range’s best third-class climbs" Doug Robinson.

Protection

Ice axe, crampons and helmet.

Photos