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Routes in Arch of Titus

Arch of Titus, The T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
C'est La Vrie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
North Central T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Post-Op T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pre-Op T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Triple Bypass T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bernard Gillett
Page Views: 89 total, 1/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jul 31, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a short but sweet line on the right side of the crag. As with the other lines here, this one needs to clean up a tad, but it's quality!

[Beta Warning...Don't read below if you're an onsight stickler.]

Begin at a medium pine tree next to the cliff. Make easy moves up into the crack and place some pro. Now make thinner moves right, following the crack, to a marginal rest and some good gear.

Now tackle the thin crack and hollow flake, placing passive gear only, for a couple moves up to a detached (but solid) flake. This lower half is exciting, the mental crux of the route. Surmount the flake and establish yourself on some small but good feet and clip the bolt. The crack moves are over. Make the crux move and finish at the anchor. Too fun!

Location

This is the rightmost line on the crag. It has a bolted anchor. A single bolt is visible from the base.

Protection

Standard rack with emphasis on small nuts/RPs. No need for anything bigger than a #0.75 Camalot, if that.

There is a bolt at the 10b technical crux, but the mental crux, and the PG-13 rating, come from the first part of the route: A solid 5.9 thin crack then flake that is hollow and at times detached.

Placing RPs in this crack was exciting, but the placements are good...assuming the flake doesn't fail. Recommend using mostly passive pro.

Photos

Jim Clarke
Cottonwood Heights, UT
  5.10c PG13
Jim Clarke   Cottonwood Heights, UT
  5.10c PG13
Cool and "heady" route. Sure didn't seem 10b! A lot of harder rated St. Vrain slab routes seem a lot easier, though I suppose it's only two moves (10c/d?). Couldn't reach the bolt from a good feet rest, had to step up/mantle on small somewhat sketchy feet. Barely get established, clip then move quickly on some really small crimps, slap a sloper, and reach quickly for a good hold higher upÂ…fun stuff. Aug 10, 2014
Very fun route. I would think most people would be happier if they doubled up on RPs and small cams. The slab crux section felt hard for 10b, especially when compared to Ionic Column which is rated 10c. The bolt protects the crux very well, but true to the style of most of the routes in the area, you are expected to place gear anywhere it's available, including small gear. Aug 30, 2012