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Routes in Arch of Titus

Arch of Titus, The T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
C'est La Vrie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
North Central T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Post-Op T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pre-Op T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Triple Bypass T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 87 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 19, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a reasonable climb that would improve with traffic. The moves are awkward, but in a good way.

Get to the base of the route on way or another and climb to surmount an appliance-sized chockstone in the corner, between a spike of rock and the corner itself. From a stance on this, climb past a brief section where the crack in the corner is closed to both jamming and protection, (first crux) with feet on the slab on the left. After a few moves, you reach a good jam and good protection. Continue up on the corner with slabby feel on the left and a juggy flake and crack on the right side of the dihedral to a rock that caps it. Turn up and right at the big rock and head towards a small tree (second crux) and the bolted anchor and rap as for this route and Arch Of Titus.

A 70m rope will get you within feet of the base, on a good ledge with a walk off, just left of the start of Arch Of Titus.

Location

This is the left-most route on the wall, ascending a left-facing corner. The base can be reached via the rap from The Arch Of Titus (going left around the arete on the way down) or via a bushy scramble.

Protection

Gear from 1" to 4" with optional wide gear and perhaps extra in the hands to wide hands range.

Photos

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Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
  5.9 PG13
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
  5.9 PG13
EDIT: after checking the topo, it appears I was off route, doh!, but I'll keep my comment just the same:

To the route description, I would add:

Begin on the 4-5 foot tall boulder to the right of the corner. Step up and stem left until you can stand in the crack above a dead stump. Ascend the wide OW/chimney, I did a layback, near top of wide crack step right to place gear (**) and extend or after you have gear in the dihedral, retreat to remove piece ** (need a bolt near top of wide crack). Then ascend the dihedral to the top, don't slip. Jun 19, 2016