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Routes in Carcass Crag

2-Pitch Route S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Alternative Power S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Appalling Travesty S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Corporeal Jigsore Quandry T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Goin' Postal S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Progress S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spliff T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Who's Your Daddy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Worthless Stud T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad
FA: Derek Doucet
Page Views: 926 total, 10/month
Shared By: Andrew Freeman on Jul 27, 2010
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Tricky climbing past plentiful bolts yields to good rest before the looming roof. Climb quickly through big jugs on steep terrain to reach a hard move guarding the upper slab. Move past tricky climbing and a mono/pocket/fingerlock to reach the chains (fixed nut and another might be useful).

Location

Center-left of the crag. Two routes to the left of Who's Your Daddy.

Protection

9ish Bolts. One fixed nut up top. Bring a few larger nuts if you don't want to contend with a little bit of a run out over the roof to the chains.

Photos

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FYI. . . no longer a fixed nut above the roof as of 5/16/13. May 17, 2013
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
  5.11c
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
  5.11c
Derek,

PG-13 for wimpy sport climbers like me though I do agree the part up to the roof would be fine even with a bolt or two removed. Yeah the nut was kind of wigging me out on my first attempt but I am sure it is totally safe - I was a little suspicious about the flake initially. Did it today and it went pretty smooth. Nice F.A. on your part. Oct 23, 2010
Derek Doucet
  5.11b
Derek Doucet  
  5.11b
Glad you liked it. Curious why the PG13 rating, though? The gear above the roof is absolutely bomber, drop-in large nuts (I've seen folks whip on them many times!) and the lower face is overbolted, IMO. I've wanted to remove one of the bolts on the face for years. Paul Hansen and I rap bolted the route, and it was desperate drilling top down on the lower face because of the roof system above. If I had it to do over again, I'd drill the lower face ground up and the roof system top down. Live and learn, I suppose: This was one of my earlier route development efforts. In any case, enjoy! Oct 1, 2010
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
  5.11c
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
  5.11c
This may actually be the best line on the Carcass Crag. Nearly flashed it but what a route! Pulling up over the lip is trickier than it seems from the ground and the finish is balancy/dicey with the fixed nut and some fiddly gear before the anchor. Need to go back and finish this.... Sep 20, 2010