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Routes in Tilman's Arete

Ectoplasmic Remains T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Tilman's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Karen Stoltz, Cindy Dohl 1988
Page Views: 5,514 total, 61/month
Shared By: E thatcher on Jul 7, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


96 Opinions

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Description

This route climbs the prominent right angling arete as visible from Rt 73.

The second pitch offers fun exposed arete climbing with a magnificent backdrop.

There are many moderate variations to the first pitch that start in the corner to the left of the arete, and use the cracks to traverse over to the fixed anchor atop pitch 1.

The pitches can easily be linked into 1 pitch.

Pitch 1: Climb a crack to the arete and angle left to a 2 bolt anchor on a comfortable ledge. (5.3)

Pitch2: Climb the obvious arete above. you will pass a bolt at about mid height. to 1 3 bolt anchor/rappel station. (5.7)

The route can be rapped in one rappel with two ropes, or two rappels with 1 rope.


Location

The approach trail deposits you at a clearing in a prominent corner. Tilmans arete starts approximately 15' to the right of the corner in a crack that is wider at the base.

Protection

A single rack will be more then adequate. Both anchors are bolted.
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.7+ R
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.7+ R
An awesome 5.7 for the very solid 5.9 climber. Nov 19, 2015
NESteve
Lake Placid, NY
NESteve   Lake Placid, NY
Great Route! Runout above the bolt but thats part of the fun!! Aug 25, 2015
Medic741
Red Hook, New York
  5.7 PG13
Medic741   Red Hook, New York
  5.7 PG13
Runout above the bolt felt 'R' to me where a fall would take you to the ground between the bolt and the only piece of pro you'll get above it. Not for the budding 5.7 leader! Really enjoyed this pitch because the climbing felt very secure for me.

The P1 variation that climbs the corner then transitions to the crack on the right face of the corner is much more engaging than the 5.3 standard p1.

After climbing this we TR'd the face between the cracks and the steep slab there felt really hard and enjoyable. Aug 11, 2015
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
Great route, start with the 5.6. Found a bail off biner on the bolt. Pretty bold move if your not used to endangering your life. Awesome view from the top! Plan on wading through a couple of streams if the water is high. Jul 7, 2015
Dom R
Ouray, Colorado
Dom R   Ouray, Colorado
Great climb to end a day with, the position is great. Condition report though, on sunday 4/20/14 there was snow at the base built all the way up to the beginning of the variation crack… that's like ten feet for people familiar with the route. we were able to do the regular 5.3 start just beware you have to do some snow trudging to get to the route. Apr 22, 2014
Jay Harrison
  5.7 PG13
Jay Harrison  
  5.7 PG13
To start the climb, one can climb directly up the middle of the face, though the moves are hard 5.7, maybe easy 5.8, and there is no gear. Dec 7, 2012
Chris Mp
Toronto, ON
Chris Mp   Toronto, ON
I found that M LaViolette Jr.'s post was spot on... "Blow the crux just before the piece after the bolt and you'll probably bounce off the belay ledge".
Variation cracks on P1 (on climber's left) remain wet for a day or two after rain.

Please do NOT poop on the beach that is crossed while approaching the climbs.
That beach is one of the nicest in the park and the last 2 times we visited we were unable to use the beach because we could both see and smell feces. Please take the time to properly bury it and if possible be a reasonable distance from water and trails. Not saying it was for sure a climber, just trying to remind people of an important issue. Oct 9, 2012
All there awesome route. 5.6 start is a must. Aug 3, 2012
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
 
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
 
P2 is a pretty "heady" lead. The crux is protected by a bolt but there are still some 5.6-ish moves above on somewhat runout terrain. I thought the pro above the bolt was also a bit marginal. Jul 25, 2012
Matt Baer
Boulder, CO
  5.7
Matt Baer   Boulder, CO
  5.7
I love this route! Excellent climbing with great views. Fun face climbing then break onto the arete and enjoy some great holds. May 17, 2012
Climbed this one today, and found the gear above the bolt on P2 to be perfectly adequate. There is a bomber nut placement above the bolt, and then you can get two small cams (.3 and .4 BD) before reaching the belay. May 3, 2012
M LaViolette Jr.
The Past
  5.7 R
M LaViolette Jr.   The Past
  5.7 R
I agree with Mike, the 5.6 variation is the way to go on the first pitch. Blow the crux just before the piece after the bolt and you'll probably bounce off the belay ledge. Gear up to .5 and 4 PBR's. Oct 20, 2011
Climbed this yesterday and I would say PG, if you use everything that is there. Excellent climb, a very fun slabby arete. Aug 13, 2011
Mike McLean
  5.7 PG13
Mike McLean  
  5.7 PG13
The P1 5.6 variation is nice as well. It starts in the corner on the left, up 10 or so feet, then step onto the horizontal, then up the ovbious right leaning crack. You join the arrête from the top of the crack. Gear was good. Aug 11, 2011
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.7 PG13
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
  5.7 PG13
I second Chris PG/R, not for the budding 5.7 leader. Apr 2, 2011
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.7 R
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.7 R
Climbed this route today for the first time. Perfect position on impeccable stone, though fairly runout above the bolt on the 2nd pitch with iffy pro to the anchor. Though an absolute classic, I would not recommend this route for the budding 5.7 leader due to how marginal the gear is. Sep 6, 2010