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Routes in Tilman's Arete

Ectoplasmic Remains T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Tilman's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: The Ever Prolific Patrick Purcell and Jeff Edwards
Page Views: 618 total, 7/month
Shared By: E thatcher on Jul 7, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

For a while now I have been wanting to do this route based on it's name alone. Now that I've done it and looked up the word "Ectoplasmic," I see it is referencing ghosts, something that may have kept me off the route had I known it. But don't be scared off! The route sports some awesome face climbing with 1 intimidating move.

Start up the prominent corner. At around 15' look for footholds and a rail to traverse out left. Aim for a right angling ramp with a corner in the back. Look down low for a crucial piece, and then make an awkward and intimidating (but not super hard) mantle on to the sloppy ledge above. Climb straight up and clip a bolt that marks a change in character for the route.

From the bolt angle up and right on thin 5.9 face climbing. Make a move to a horizontal that offers protection, and a break from the more insecure crimping on either side of it. Again, move up and right to yet another bolt. Clip, and then finish the climb, making use of the magical crimp, to the anchors.



Location

On the left wall of the large corner that makes up the Tilman's Arete area. rappel or lower off with 1 rope.

Protection

Single rack. 2 bolts. Fixed anchor.

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