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Routes in (f) Limp Dick

Dick Tracy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dickhead T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Fallatio T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Five Tree T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Limp Dick T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Jonny Woodward and Darrell Hensel, July 1988
Page Views: 351 total · 4/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Jun 30, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the face past the obvious features (dishes etc...) passing zero bolts. The crux is at the top. Woodward bouldered it until he felt comfortable commiting to the move.

It might be possible to stack multiple pads in a manner that would keep one from getting hurt and also prevent going down the hill after landing.

Location

Right of Dick Tracy

Protection

None. Solo or TR. The stray bolt near the bottom (to the right) is not part of the route.

Photos

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No one seems to know the history of that stray bolt. Everyone I know has said the same thing as well - "huh"? As I remember it didn't make any sense relative to where free moves would logically connect, and that the bolt was hard to get to no matter what the original "vision" was (although I might not be remembering the last bit correctly) .

That stray bolt could be removed and I don't think anybody would get their panties worked into a bunch. Or they shouldn't. Jan 3, 2018
Huh, what the heck is that stray bolt for? Jan 2, 2018

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