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Routes in (f) Limp Dick

Dick Tracy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dickhead T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Fallatio T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Five Tree T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Limp Dick T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Charles Cole and Gib Lewis, 1983
Page Views: 355 total · 2/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 30, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climb is on the long northeast face of the rock. For the approach, scramble high up the gully on the left side of Sunshine Wall. It starts near the tunnel used to access the South Face. The climb is a short, very enjoyable steep pocketed face with good protection. Shortly above the second bolt, the difficulty eases up considerably, and you can scramble to the top. The second bolt was placed more for protection of the second person than for the leader. The first ascensionists claim that they considered "Hard On" for the route's name before settling on Dick Tracy.

Protection

two bolts and perhaps one or two wired nuts

Photos

- No Photos -
Tradiban  
 
Old quarter inch bolts on this, try not to fall, pretty much just a few moves and then a scramble to the top. Didn't see a spot for any nuts. Jan 2, 2018
Tradiban  
 
Also, there's two newer bolts directly below the jug on this, I think the V and G book shows them going left but with no name or details just a "?". Jan 4, 2018

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