Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Dickhead

5.11b X, Trad, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: Jonny Woodward and Darrell Hensel, July 1988
California > Tahquitz & Suic… > Suicide Rock > (f) Limp Dick

Description

Climb the face past the obvious features (dishes etc...) passing zero bolts. The crux is at the top. Woodward bouldered it until he felt comfortable commiting to the move.

It might be possible to stack multiple pads in a manner that would keep one from getting hurt and also prevent going down the hill after landing.

Location

Right of Dick Tracy on the Limp Dick formation.

Protection

None. Solo or TR. The stray bolt near the bottom (to the right) is not part of the route.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climb up the water streak to a jug on the lip.
[Hide Photo] Climb up the water streak to a jug on the lip.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tradiban
[Hide Comment] Huh, what the heck is that stray bolt for? Jan 2, 2018
Darrell Hensel
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] No one seems to know the history of that stray bolt. Everyone I know has said the same thing as well - "huh"? As I remember it didn't make any sense relative to where free moves would logically connect, and that the bolt was hard to get to no matter what the original "vision" was (although I might not be remembering the last bit correctly) . Jan 3, 2018
Tradiban
951-527-7959
[Hide Comment] Did this today on TR. Good stuff with a committing dead point to the lip. Brought a pad to boulder it, glad I didn't though, missing the dead point would be a killer.

We worked the errant bolt line to the right too, tricky slopers in the crux, could go, dunno, we didn't get it clean. Oct 31, 2020