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Routes in Lower Spire
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Driving Miss Dahl T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Five Tendons S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Jack Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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K.E. Cracks S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Last Lockup T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Regular Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Siren, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Wraith, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 38.7863, -120.2433 |
| FA: | David Rubine and Will Chen - 1989 |
| Page Views: | 2,203 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Keith Forest on May 25, 2010 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
The Siren is an exceptional face route on the downhill side of Lower Phantom Spire. It follows a line of 10 bolts to the top. It is noted by an obvious roof about two thirds up the spire. Surmounting the roof is the crux.
There is a bolt belay just before the crux for those wanting to do a 5.11a or do it in two pitches. The rock is perfect and the climbing consistently challenging. The route was established ground up and on sight.
Location
Lower Phantom Spire. Located on the downhill left-hand side facing the spire. Starts off a walk-on ledge, up a short/steep/shallow/crack-less corner past two bolts to a third bolt and stance. The route then traverses to the left and up to the roof past a series of bolts to the top. Rap off back/uphill side.
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