Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: David Rubine and Will Chen - 1989
Page Views: 883 total · 8/month
Shared By: Keith Forest on May 25, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

The Siren is an exceptional face route on the downhill side of Lower Phantom Spire. It follows a line of 10 bolts to the top. It is noted by an obvious roof about two thirds up the spire. Surmounting the roof is the crux.

There is a bolt belay just before the crux for those wanting to do a 5.11a or do it in two pitches. The rock is perfect and the climbing consistently challenging. The route was established ground up and on sight.

Location

Lower Phantom Spire. Located on the downhill left-hand side facing the spire. Starts off a walk-on ledge, up a short/steep/shallow/crack-less corner past two bolts to a third bolt and stance. The route then traverses to the left and up to the roof past a series of bolts to the top. Rap off back/uphill side.

Protection

All bolts (some mid-sized camming units can be placed just over the roof in a horizontal crack if someone is uncomfortable clipping the bolt a few feet higher). This bolt protects the crux.

Photos

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There is a lower off anchor and the climb can be TR'd with 60 meter. Oct 21, 2011
Salamanizer suchoski
Janesville Ca.
  5.12b/c
Salamanizer suchoski   Janesville Ca.  
  5.12b/c
The roof is definitely harder than 5.11d. Up to the first anchor is one of the best 5.11 face routes around and is very sustained. Mar 24, 2014
Josh Harmon 1
San Francisco, CA
 
Josh Harmon 1   San Francisco, CA
 
A bolt was added just over the lip of the roof so anyone who is contemplating bringing cams shouldn't bother. Nov 5, 2018