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Routes in Lower Spire

Driving Miss Dahl T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Five Tendons S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jack Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
K.E. Cracks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Last Lockup T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Regular Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Siren, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: D. Hatchett and M. Hatchett
Page Views: 135 total, 1/month
Shared By: J. Albers on Nov 8, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

Fun mixed bolt and gear route. Begins with 10-15 feet of easy climbing to a roof and left trending hand to fist crack (5.9). The jamming is a bit awkward until you get established above the roof, but it protects perfectly with a #3 BD camalot. Rest at a ledge and then fire the right facing lieback up to a roof and then undercling right (crux) to a big knob and a bolt. Pull onto the slab above and climb past another bolt or two to the two bolt anchor. You can set a toprope with a 60m rope.

Location

Begins in the middle of the south face of lower spire (climbers left of Jack Corner). You can walk down around the east side of the spire from Five Tendons.

Protection

Small nuts and cams to #3 camalot.

Photos

GizzardJones
Rancho Cordova,CA
  5.10a
GizzardJones   Rancho Cordova,CA
  5.10a
After leading Jacks Corner you can easily top rope this super fun route. Mar 24, 2016