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Routes in Lower Spire

Driving Miss Dahl T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Five Tendons S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jack Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
K.E. Cracks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Last Lockup T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Regular Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Siren, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Aiden McGuire
Page Views: 105 total · 1/month
Shared By: J. Albers on Nov 8, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

Shares the first few bolts of KE cracks and then traverses straight right across a small ledge to the corner/arete. When you reach the corner, head straight up the wide crack on the arete for 10-15 feet and then step back left onto the face and climb a beautiful and technical headwall (crux is a few bolts up the headwall.) Stellar climbing.

Location

Begin as for KE Cracks.

Protection

Bolts and a cam or two (I remember placing a #3 Camalot.) After you traverse right to the arete, you can plug cams (2-4 inches) in the wide crack until you can reach back left and clip the first bolt on the headwall. Then follow bolts to a two bolt anchor. You can set up a toprope by climbing Five Tendons and scrambling to the anchors.

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J. Albers
Colorado
 
J. Albers   Colorado
 
Thanks Aiden. I left the grade at 12a because that is what I remember it feeling like; however, it has been about 5 years since I have been on it and 11d is surely reasonable. Either way, its a nice route. Thanks for putting it up. Oct 27, 2011
The route is called Driving Miss Dahl. I rated it 11d
It combines the best of KE crack with a great steep knobby head wall Oct 21, 2011