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Routes in The Speed Trap

Mach 5 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Neon Leon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nitrous Oxide S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Speed Racer S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Speed Trap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Steve Carruthers, Jim Howe, 1990
Page Views: 1,870 total · 18/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Apr 1, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Fire up the steep face on the right side of the wall. Move, move, and fight the pump.

Clip the first three bolts of Mach 5 and break towards a fourth bolt to the right. Get your one and only mediocre rest then jump for a thin edge. Stick this move and continue up past two more bolts picking a part the last 15 feet. Eat a light lunch, its a very powerful route.

A few big holds, a dead point, plenty of crimps, and a gaston! Hard if you're tall, hard if you're short, its no gimmie.

Location

In the midle of the wall, Speed Trap starts on the first two bolts of Mach 5 and finishes at the right most visible anchor.

Protection

Six bolts to an anchor.

Photos

EAS Fett
  5.12b/c
EAS Fett  
  5.12b/c
The last 15-20 feet feels like 2 V4 moves with some good crimps in between. The Gaston move is hard to balance and taxing. Good clipping stances... fun stuff. Seems like it would be hard for shorter people May 23, 2010
tenesmus  
 
That gaston move is burly for tall people and the tall man beta makes the second problem feel a lot easier than v4. Nice pics Spreadsheet. Aug 11, 2010
Sam Miller
salt lake city, UT
 
Sam Miller   salt lake city, UT
 
Really cool! Easy until the last few moves. Felt like solid .12c to me. Jul 20, 2012
C L
SLC
 
C L   SLC
 
Can anybody weigh in on the finish of this route? Do most people end at the permadraw or are you supposed to mantle and end at the chains?

Also, Tony Calderone's new 5.2 chosspile additions on the backside of this formation are ridiculously bad. I've never been an advocate of chopping bolts but there are 3 huge anchors within a 10ft span, and a shotgun splattering of bolts leading up pure choss. Tony, if you like using your drill so much you should replace old bolts in the canyon before adding shitty new lines. Apr 25, 2018
Boissal -
Small Lake, UT
Boissal -   Small Lake, UT
Probably better if he refrains from using his drill altogether as I imagine his approach to bolt replacement would involve serious re-engineering of existing lines. Who'd have thought anyone could think of bolting the back side of that formation? Is it even rock? Apr 26, 2018

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