Avg: 1 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Tristan Higbee, Chris Sorensen, 3/12/10|
|Page Views:||723 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Tristan Higbee on Mar 12, 2010|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionThis is an adventurous route that starts above the main AC/DC Wall.
Pitch 1: Start up easy climbing to a fun, short chimney section (5.6 crux). Belay at a big bush after the angle eases off.
Move the belay 30' up the slope to the base of the nice-looking slab.
Pitch 2: Head up the solid slab and belay either at some bushes or using horizontal cracks. 5.5
Head up-slope. And belay at the base of the next pitch.
Pitch 3: "Who's the choss?" The best/scariest (and worst) pitch of the route. Start on OK rock just right of a shallow, chossy, right-leaning crack. Pro is sparse. Make a tricky move over a bulge, but don't fall--there's groundfall potential. Continue up past (through?) a bush, then up and left to another bush you can sling. Keep going left and go over another bulge (5.8 crux). Belay to the right in some very thin vertical cracks, plus some cracks (green and red Camalot) near ground level. Tricky belay.
Pitch 4: Easier climbing through more bushes leads to a steeper section right at the top (crux). More bad fall potential. Mind the death block at the bottom of the steep part. It's big and moves when you touch it. Sling a boulder/spike on top with a cordalette for the belay. (5.7)
Descent: Head north, then west along faint game trails up to the top of Trilogy. From the top of Trilogy, either head down the Trilogy Gully (good if you've got a bag at the base of the route that you need to pick up) or continue west past Bad Bananas to the canyon floor.