Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tristan Higbee, Chris Sorensen, 3/12/10
Page Views: 737 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Mar 12, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

2 Opinions

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This is an adventurous route that starts above the main AC/DC Wall.

Pitch 1: Start up easy climbing to a fun, short chimney section (5.6 crux). Belay at a big bush after the angle eases off.

Move the belay 30' up the slope to the base of the nice-looking slab.

Pitch 2: Head up the solid slab and belay either at some bushes or using horizontal cracks. 5.5

Head up-slope. And belay at the base of the next pitch.

Pitch 3: "Who's the choss?" The best/scariest (and worst) pitch of the route. Start on OK rock just right of a shallow, chossy, right-leaning crack. Pro is sparse. Make a tricky move over a bulge, but don't fall--there's groundfall potential. Continue up past (through?) a bush, then up and left to another bush you can sling. Keep going left and go over another bulge (5.8 crux). Belay to the right in some very thin vertical cracks, plus some cracks (green and red Camalot) near ground level. Tricky belay.

Pitch 4: Easier climbing through more bushes leads to a steeper section right at the top (crux). More bad fall potential. Mind the death block at the bottom of the steep part. It's big and moves when you touch it. Sling a boulder/spike on top with a cordalette for the belay. (5.7)

Descent: Head north, then west along faint game trails up to the top of Trilogy. From the top of Trilogy, either head down the Trilogy Gully (good if you've got a bag at the base of the route that you need to pick up) or continue west past Bad Bananas to the canyon floor.


Approach up the gully as for AC/DC, but continue past the wall. Turn right when the wall ends (and before you get to Trilogy) and head uphill. The route start right of a large white rock and left of low-angled, mossy slabs. Look for a short chimney thing partway up the pitch with a bush above it.


1 set micro cams. Doubles of cams to #4 (singles of .3 and .4 Camalot are fine). Set of nuts. Lots of slings.


Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
Pitch 3 is one of the scariest pitches I've led in a while. Don't let the 5.8 rating fool you! I placed maybe 8 or 10 pieces on that pitch and Chris thought that maybe 2 would have held a fall. The rock is pretty crumbly. Be sure to test those holds. Don't fall on pitch 3 or 4.

Having said that, this is a fun adventure route! 1 star for for the adventure factor. No bolts or pitons were placed on the route. Mar 12, 2010
Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
  5.8 R
Christopher Sorensen   Provo, UT
  5.8 R
I had a ton of fun on this climb. Like Tristan said, it is really an adventure. Also, don't fall on the last two pitches. Not only is this climb a fun, strange route, when you get to the top, it offers some of the most spectacular views of Rock Canyon you can get, and that alone makes it worth it. Also, it has a cool name. Oh, and also like Tristan said, really be careful for the Boulder of Death. If you are leading and you knock it down, your belayer is going to be very sad. Mar 13, 2010
Wish I could've joined you for this one...nothing is more funny than seeing Tristan scared! Mar 13, 2010
Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
  5.8 R
Christopher Sorensen   Provo, UT
  5.8 R
I didn't see a way to walk it off after the second pitch. I think that ledge is cut off from the gully by some seriously sheer cliffs. We didn't look for a way to walk it off, but if I remember correctly, while coming back down the gully, I checked to see if there was a way down by foot, and there wasn't. I would make sure before I went up if I were thinking about walking it off after two pitches. Mar 15, 2010