Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tristan Higbee, Chris Sorensen, 3/12/10
Page Views: 1,348 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Mar 12, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is an adventurous route that starts above the main AC/DC Wall.

Pitch 1: Start up easy climbing to a fun, short chimney section (5.6 crux). Belay at a big bush after the angle eases off.

Move the belay 30' up the slope to the base of the nice-looking slab.

Pitch 2: Head up the solid slab and belay either at some bushes or using horizontal cracks. 5.5

Head up-slope. And belay at the base of the next pitch.

Pitch 3: "Who's the choss?" The best/scariest (and worst) pitch of the route. Start on OK rock just right of a shallow, chossy, right-leaning crack. Pro is sparse. Make a tricky move over a bulge, but don't fall--there's groundfall potential. Continue up past (through?) a bush, then up and left to another bush you can sling. Keep going left and go over another bulge (5.8 crux). Belay to the right in some very thin vertical cracks, plus some cracks (green and red Camalot) near ground level. Tricky belay.

Pitch 4: Easier climbing through more bushes leads to a steeper section right at the top (crux). More bad fall potential. Mind the death block at the bottom of the steep part. It's big and moves when you touch it. Sling a boulder/spike on top with a cordalette for the belay. (5.7)

Descent: Head north, then west along faint game trails up to the top of Trilogy. From the top of Trilogy, either head down the Trilogy Gully (good if you've got a bag at the base of the route that you need to pick up) or continue west past Bad Bananas to the canyon floor.

Location Suggest change

Approach up the gully as for AC/DC, but continue past the wall. Turn right when the wall ends (and before you get to Trilogy) and head uphill. The route start right of a large white rock and left of low-angled, mossy slabs. Look for a short chimney thing partway up the pitch with a bush above it.

Protection Suggest change

1 set micro cams. Doubles of cams to #4 (singles of .3 and .4 Camalot are fine). Set of nuts. Lots of slings.