Type: Sport, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Andy Knight
Page Views: 585 total · 8/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 7, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

A fun, moderate route with a nervy feeling of exposure at the top. This line branches off right from It's a Long Way to the Top after the tenth bolt.

Andy's start: Start below the first bolt and make several bouldery, insecure moves through the second bolt. Mid 5.11 (and obviously, the overall route is not then 5.10a).

What everybody else does: Stand on the boulder immediately uphill, use some jugs and the obvious rail and surf right, avoiding the undercut, slopey, madness. 5.9-5.10a or so.

After the second bolt continue up making moderate moves through occasionally broken, mostly solid rock. Slings are useful (but not required) at three bolts to manage rope drag (4th, 8th, and 10th, if I remember correctly.

Eventually, you'll come to the tenth bolt. At this point, going straight up takes you into the crux for It's a Long Way to the Top so head right and up through some really fun jugs, with an insecure move here and there.

Location

Heading up hill you'll pass a large roof with several bolted lines through it (and at the time of this writing, some brightly painted graffiti near the ground). Just past this roof on the wall on the right you'll see a couple of bolted lines. This line heads more-or-less straight up, and shares the first ten bolts with It's a Long Way to the Top.

Protection

14 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

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