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Routes in AC/DC Wall

Andy's 10 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Angus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Back in Black S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
For Those About To Rock (We Salute You) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Givin the Dog a Bone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hell's Bells S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
If God's On The Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
If You Wanna Rock N' Roll S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
It's a Long Way to the Top S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lemme Put My Love Into You S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Logical Fallacy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Send For The Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shot Down in Flames S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thunderstruck S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Whole Lotta Rosie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Tristan Higbee, Christian Burrell, Chris Sorensen
Page Views: 1,238 total, 12/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Aug 25, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Want to feel like you're climbing a route in the mountains but don't want to be bothered to actually have to walk all the way up there? This route is for you. It's long, follows a sort of natural passage up the rock, and stays interesting the whole way up. Really good rock is broken up by a few bands of chossy white loveliness. The crux is surmounting a bulge at the 8th bolt. Hint: go right, but not too far right.

A lot of the ledges and holds have small pebbles on them. It's a good idea for the belayer to wear a helmet or to hide under the overhang at the start.

This is the only route on the wall with tan powder-coated bolt hangers.

Location

To the left of Lemme Put My Love Into You (5.8) and right of Angus (5.10c). The route goes to within 5 feet of the top of the wall.

Protection

11 bolts to chains.

Photos

Kenny Clark
State College, PA
  5.8
Kenny Clark   State College, PA
  5.8
There is really sharp rock for the first four or five bolts, but it gets much better by the top. I agree with the other posters that there really are some fun moves throughout the climb. If you have a tolerance for this kind of rock, then for sure get on this route. It's still pretty dirty as of Nov '10. If this area saw more traffic it would be much cleaner, and I would probably give it 2.5 stars (if I could). I must apologize for those yet to climb this as I broke off a hold about three or fout bolts up. It wasn't a crucial hold though. I must say that the chains are very well placed. Rope drag wasn't an issue lowering off the route. Very well placed bolts also. Nov 7, 2010
jtwalter
Orem, UT
 
jtwalter   Orem, UT
 
This route was pretty fun climbing, but a hammer and a broom could be put to good use on it. Sep 3, 2009
Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
  5.8
Christopher Sorensen   Provo, UT
  5.8
I wish I could give 2.5 stars, because this route is better than good. It is a really unique route that, like T-Hig says, gives you the feeling of climbing a real mountain. From the base of the climb, it almost looks like it's 5.1 barely climbing, but don't be fooled, it is a real climb and it has some cool moves. The first move to the first bolt is a lot of fun, and the crux is pretty cool too. With the crux, like Tristan says, don't go too far right. The further right you go, the easier it gets, until you can basically get to the next bolt by doing a little 4th class scramble. Don't do that. The crux is cool, maybe the best move on the climb. Get on it. Aug 25, 2009
Was surprised how much fun I had on this one. Each steep part is thought provoking and fun. The cruxy bulge was a real treat. Aug 25, 2009