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Routes in AC/DC Wall

Andy's 10 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Angus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Back in Black S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
For Those About To Rock (We Salute You) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Givin the Dog a Bone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hell's Bells S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
If God's On The Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
If You Wanna Rock N' Roll S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
It's a Long Way to the Top S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lemme Put My Love Into You S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Logical Fallacy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Send For The Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shot Down in Flames S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thunderstruck S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Whole Lotta Rosie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Andy Knight, 2001
Page Views: 1,022 total, 9/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 30, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Start on a ledge above the talus field in the gully. The moves to the first bolt are kind of balancy. Getting to and clipping the second bolt is a bit reachy, and you don’t want to fall before clipping the second bolt.

Once the second bolt is clipped the real business begins. A couple of pockets that force you right, a jug or two, sidepulls, and hidden holds make for an interesting sequence to the third bolt. Good feet at this point allow a quick rest before committing to the moves to get over a bulge to the fourth bolt. After the fourth bolt, it is easy climbing to the chains.

Location

The right of the two bolted routes in the black streaks on the east wall of the gully.

Protection

4 bolts, chain anchors (shared with Thunderstruck to the left).

Photos

Canyon Copa  
 
Climbed this one right after thunderstruck and was definitely more challenging than I was expecting. Tricky holds with fun moves once you find them. May 29, 2012
Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
 
Christopher Sorensen   Provo, UT
 
Crisco egged me to get on this route, and I'm glad he did. Sick route. Some of the holds are not that obvious, but when you find them they're great. Crisco was right in that it feels a little like a limestone route. Every move is quality. Aug 25, 2009
Ok route but you certainly wouldn't want to fall as this route is like climbing on razor blades. Most solid rock of all the AC/DC wall. Very short. Easy Top out. Crux between second and third bolts. In my opinion not worth the scramble up the rock slide. Jun 22, 2008
Jeff Jones
Elk Ridge, UT
  5.10c
Jeff Jones   Elk Ridge, UT
  5.10c
This is really a great route for so many reasons. I first tried this climb at the end of a very long climbing day and fell trying to clip the second bolt. Not a good idea! Thanks to my belayer for saving my ankles. Anyway, went back last Friday and stick clipped the second draw so that I could clip a little lower (mentally I couldn't get past that last fall). In any event, great climb with several very cool moves. Jun 6, 2008
If it were longer, it would earn the fourth star! Excellent climbing that felt like limestone climbing to me.
The bolt spacing keeps your attention for sure. A good idea to use a stick clip and pre-hang the draws if you are not solid at this grade, maybe even if you are. Apr 21, 2008
Michael Rose
  5.10c
Michael Rose  
  5.10c
This route is a fun, awesome route. Fun climbing on some bomber edges. Apr 16, 2008