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Routes in The Dark Heart

Type: Boulder, 18 ft
FA: Chris Baker
Page Views: 1,151 total, 12/month
Shared By: tcamillieri on Feb 28, 2010
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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East Mountain is accessed by Guided Tour Only Details
Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

This problem beings low (no lower) on the "holster" pocket and another jug. Start crossed and move through the jugs until you get to an undercling. Reach out left to an ok pocket and bicycle. THe crux is the next two moves establishing on the next thin finger lock pocket and then reaching up to a crimp work your feet to a good foot out left and reach a juggy pocket. Cross left hand to the next crimp then cross back underneath your left hand to an undercling jug. Slap up to the lip and bump until you can get a left heel hook on the lip and (red point crux) surge out to a good right hand crimp. Rock over. 3 stars for awesome holds, movement and obvious line, -1 star for the slab at your back which is annoying more than anything.

Location

From the Dragon's Den head along the ridge about 100 yards past Satan, Satan, Satan and Kim with a Bathtub in her Head. The boulder rests downhill off the ridge by itself.

Protection

Two or three pads and a spotter. There is a slab that follows closely behind you as you climb so a thin pad would be best as there is a high dab-potential.

Photos

Tim Steele
Bishop, CA.
Tim Steele   Bishop, CA.
FA was Chris Baker Jan 31, 2011
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
A crappy video of a great problem.
youtube.com/watch?v=2lM0Yvm… Apr 29, 2010