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Routes in The Dark Heart

Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 385 total, 6/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Jan 2, 2013
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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East Mountain is accessed by Guided Tour Only Details
Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

Arete and compression climbing on perfect rock. More about finesse than power.

Start on double underclings and lunge to a sloper. Bump your left hand up the arete and make a hard move to a sidepull on the face. Shuffle up the arete some more, go to another sidepull. Move your feet out right, cross over to a sloper, match, and fire for the lip.

The last 3 moves are the hardest. Would get 4 stars if it wasn't so close to other boulders.

The PG13 comes from the eerily close wall behind you when you toss for the top. No one ever hit it, but it feels like you could.

Location

Left end of the Dark Heart.

Protection

Bring at least 3 pads and one spotter. More is better.

Photos

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
It is interesting, because I would have said the opposite, that the first 3 move are the hardest and the last three are kind of delicate and keep you on edge but are generally easier. Maybe it was less humid when I did it, either way it is a great problem. I did not notice the wall behind me for the finish but it is still kind of crammed in a corner which detracts a little from the overall aesthetics. Feb 11, 2013