Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Al Day and Ray Breuninger ~1970
Page Views: 19,500 total · 153/month
Shared By: Dronocian on Feb 21, 2010 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


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Description

P1: (5.8 – 200 ft.) Start with a series of cracks starting near the west arête. There are many possible choices, apparently the center splitter up the small tower is the original start. Another recommended start is to find a tree with slings around it, slightly on the west side of Shoshone spire. Climb past the tree and follow the dihedral with 3" gear just above this tree. Continue until your rope runs out and belay from a tree.
P2: (5.7 – 200 ft.) Choose from many variations, and climb up to the ledge that separates the spire into two sections. This is referred to as the lunch ledge, and it is possible to skip the first two pitches by scrambling to this point from the ledges to the east.
P3: (5.8 – 80 ft.) Start under and a bit to the left of a small tree about 80 feet up. Take the "railroad tracks", where you'll find a fixed cam and a pin. Belay at the tree with gear or sling the tree.
P4: (5.8 – 160 ft.) Continue straight up from here following cracks and flares to the large ledge. Belay with gear or sling a large block.
P5: (5.8 – 160 ft.) From under the roof, move right out avoiding the roof to get back on the face. Continue past a few face moves (crux) to cracks, and finish on the next large ledge. Belay with gear or sling blocks.
From this ledge, walk north and around to top out.

Descent: Walk off the east side of the summit picking your way down some slabs until you can gain the gully on the north. Follow this gully down while hugging the east side of Shoshone Spire until you come to a big cliff band (you most likely hiked directly under this cliff band on your way up). Look for a "bonsai" tree. There is a 2 bolt chain anchor directly at the tree. Use double 60 meter ropes to hit the ground in one rappel, or use a single 60 meter rope and stop at an intermediate 2 bolt chain anchor.

Location

Shoshone Spire. The route starts on the west arete of the south face, with a few possible variations. Descend by scrambling down the northeast side, continuing down to lunch ledge. From here choose a slung tree(there are a few), and set one double rope rappel to the base.

Protection

rack to 3", stoppers. 

Photos