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Routes in Shoshone Spire

In Memoriam T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Poison Flower T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Shoshone South Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 340 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Elliot Dubriel & Steve Eddy 1975
Page Views: 2,180 total, 33/month
Shared By: verticalabyss on Jun 22, 2012
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

In Memoriam climbs a prominent line up the center of Shoshone's Upper Buttress. Going years without seeing many climbers, a recent increase in ascents has cleaned this quality route up and further ascents will help make this route classic.
Enjoy climbing the awesome handcrack on the second pitch's "Red Sickle" and also the clean slab climbing on the first pitch.

Location

Route begins at the center of the large ledge where Poison Flower, Hop on Pop, Renaissance Man, and the Standard Route begin. Look for thin flakes leading up to two good bolts.
Pitch One: Climb past bolts to a tricky move left into a crack. Follow this crack past a bulge with a fixed pin, and finally step right to a bomber bolted belay. 170 ft.
Pitch Two: Step left into crack from belay and climb up red sickle. Traverse right under roofs until cracks lead up and left around roof. Follow discontinuous cracks to top and tree belay. 170 ft.

Protection

Doubles from small to #1 Camalot. Throw in a single #2 and #3 Camalot along with a good set of nuts(brass offsets work well).
Climbed this in 1987. There was at least one bolt at that time (I have a photo of me trying to clip it, using a stick.

I recall I thought it about mid-grade 5.10. Definitely "R" rated. That first pitch is pretty runout. High quality, as I remember. Great liebacking up a slopey, slabby edge.

When we did it, we clipped a bolt that was in a different place to the ones on the topo. There's a bolt up on top of the big flake (unless maybe someone moved it?). Also the climber in the FA action photo, starting up the first pitch, is 15 feet left of the yellow line on the topo. I climbed it about where the yellow line goes.

Anyhow, great climb! Jul 23, 2013
I noticed in the Falcon Guidebook, ‘Rock Climbing Montana’, that In Memorium is rated 5.10d/R and that a double rack of cams and a “regular rack” is recommended. Mountain Project’s recommends a smaller rack which seems more reasonable. This was the first 5.10 lead I did, I was in great shape, but I do not think it is a 5.10 d, probably an a or b. Also we did not have cams back then, and although the first pitch may have been a bit run out, I did not feel at the time that it deserved an R rating.
We placed no bolts or pins, used strictly nuts, and no chalk. Comments on Mountain Project talk of a bolt on the first pitch. I would love to talk with or email anyone who has done the route recently what kind of shape it is in and how many bolts are on it. When we climbed it we thought the route belonged to the first ascent team, and any alteration was heresy. Now most of my generation is more generous and feels that a climb belongs to those climbing it.
Steve Eddy – first ascent
619-889=9894
eddy_steven@bah.com Dec 28, 2012
This route was named after my dad died in LA. I did not know about it in time to go. I spent the summver wtih Elliot in Montana. There were no bolts on the route on the first ascent, it was done clean. I lead both pitches and it was a gas. Beautiful climb, beautifu approach. We found a caren on the top, the face had been climbed once before (as far as we could tell) on the left side of the face. We had climbed that the day before.

Steve Eddy
619-889-9894 Jul 11, 2012
Josh Kornish
tufaclimbing.com
Josh Kornish   tufaclimbing.com
first bolt is about 25, 30 feet high with really shitty gear behind thin flakes. Really sandy rock makes smearing feel pretty insecure on runouts.

Flake above 2nd bolt on first pitch is not long to this world. Jul 7, 2012