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A cool variation I have concocted after climbing this thing several times. This variation includes a couple of the best features on this wall IMO -A great section of splitter hands, and a beautifully exposed traverse beneath the summit roof. From lunch ledge, climb a full 60m into a fairly obvious alcove for a comfortable belay ~10m below the first of 3 short "roofs". (A 60m rope is just enough –not a rope stretcher). From here work over the first two small "roofs" trending right to what looks like a flaring fists roof at the start of the splitter. Avoid climbing too high and traversing under the roof into the splitter. The small "roof" and splitter are actually very secure and easy hands on a featureless face. After 55m there is a nice belay in a small alcove just right of the walk up ledge entrance. Traverse under the roof (stay low). Place a piece and make the transition onto the vertical face at the end of the traverse. Climb up a short section of buttlips corner to the summit. All the climbing on this variation is very protectable. Due to the long pitches I recommend bringing doubles to 3” and rationing gear placements.
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Kyle Pease
May 3, 2013
A cool variation I have concocted after climbing this thing several times. This variation includes a couple of the best features on this wall IMO -A great section of splitter hands, and a beautifully exposed traverse beneath the summit roof. From lunch ledge, climb a full 60m into a fairly obvious alcove for a comfortable belay ~10m below the first of 3 short "roofs". (A 60m rope is just enough –not a rope stretcher). From here work over the first two small "roofs" trending right to what looks like a flaring fists roof at the start of the splitter. Avoid climbing too high and traversing under the roof into the splitter. The small "roof" and splitter are actually very secure and easy hands on a featureless face. After 55m there is a nice belay in a small alcove just right of the walk up ledge entrance. Traverse under the roof (stay low). Place a piece and make the transition onto the vertical face at the end of the traverse. Climb up a short section of buttlips corner to the summit. All the climbing on this variation is very protectable. Due to the long pitches I recommend bringing doubles to 3” and rationing gear placements.  

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