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Areas in Blodgett Canyon

Blackfoot Dome 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Cornler Ridge 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Drip Buttress 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Flathead Buttress 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 5
Nez Perce Spire 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 2
Parking Lot Wall 7 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Prow, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Shoshone Spire 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Elevation: 6,697 ft
GPS: 46.277, -114.357 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 61,395 total · 595/month
Shared By: mr bojangles on Dec 3, 2009
Admins: grk10vq
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Description [Edit]

Blodgett Canyon sits in the middle of the Bitterroot Mountain Range and mainly consists of multi-pitch spires and one smaller cliff close to the parking lot.

The south facing side of the canyon is littered with granite cliffs and spires. If you have not been here it's certainly time to go. There is camping right before the trail head as well as a bathroom right there in the parking lot. Most of the approaches to the spires can be a bit grueling, especially the ones further down the canyon.

Another thing to be noted, blodgett rock at times can be the ever puckering big loose block, super scaly, kitty litter type. The important thing to remember is your climbing in Montana, and you’re going to run into the choss sooner than later. The climbing is mostly lay-backing in dihedrals but expect to also see face climbing, runnel mc dunnels, slabs, and rare jam cracks. I think that about does it for the description. If you can top this by all means do so, I just couldn’t bare to see one of Montana’s better areas absent on Mountain Project.

Approach: If you are gathering most of your information out of the falcon guide book do not pay much attention to the worthless approach descriptions. When you are somewhat in line with your climb, scout a line up the talus, find a log crossing, shed a layer, and convince your partner to carry the rope. If this is your first climb in the canyon count on an all day event and start early.

Descent: The decents in Blodgett can be tricky so leave ample time for getting down and know whether you need 2 ropes for the rap.

Getting There [Edit]

Head towards Hamilton on Highway 93 and take Blodgett Canyon Road. Access to the climbing routes begin at the Blodgett Creek Trailhead. In Hamilton, Mt, drive west on Main Street (out of the downtown area) until you reach the bridge over the Bitterroot River. Just past (west) the bridge, turn right (north) onto Ricketts Road and drive for .5 mile. At the intersection, turn left (west) onto Blodgett Camp Road. Veer right at the intersection with FS 735 in about 2.5 miles.Continue for about 1.5 miles to the combined Blodgett Creek Campground and TH.

On your left is parking for a couple of dozen vehicles and an outhouse. Here is the trailhead for Blodgett Canyon.

30 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Blodgett Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 49
Shoshone South Face
Trad 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 13
Standard Route
Trad 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 7
The Free Lament
Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 5
In Memoriam
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Cornlier Ridge (first 3 pitches)
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 5
South West Buttress
Trad 8 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 17
My Moms Muscle Shirt
Trad 8 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 5
Poison Flower
Trad 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 21
Timebinder
Trad 8 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Melanoma
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Shoshone South Face Shoshone Spire
 49
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Standard Route Drip Buttress
 13
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
The Free Lament Blackfoot Dome
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 3 pitches
In Memoriam Shoshone Spire
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Cornlier Ridge (first 3 pit… Cornler Ridge > Cornlier Ridge
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
South West Buttress Nez Perce Spire
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad 8 pitches
My Moms Muscle Shirt Flathead Buttress
 17
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 8 pitches
Poison Flower Shoshone Spire
 5
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Timebinder Prow
 21
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 8 pitches
Melanoma Drip Buttress
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Blodgett Canyon »

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Photos

Stamati A
Bellingham, WA
Stamati A   Bellingham, WA
There are some great problems on the campground boulder. You can't miss this thing; it is big and beautiful. My partner and I possibly put up new problems, although it's hard to imagine we were the first to do them. There's no beta I've found out there, though.

The East Face holds three problems- a slight traverse from the center of the boulder right on good crimps and sidepulls with a tiny left foot and high right to a rockover and up to a jug at the top. Another traverses from the left side on gastons, a good rail and poor feet to the center route and the same finish. The third problem starts directly below the finish on a tiny tiny right foot and slopey crimps to a slightly dynamic move to a good edge and joins the original, center route. All share holds and finish in the same place. Quality V1-V2s.

The South Face holds one problem, a V3 on an obvious vertical fissure with sharp sidepulls. No hands out left and a bad smear on the East Face around the arete with a big reach to a sloper on a 'tower-like' feature (obvious) while moving feet up and reaching for a jug up top.

The North Face has an arete problem V1 and a face problem that we couldn't do.

The West Face holds some V0 problems that are fun and a good warmup. It is also the downclimb.

Enjoy! May 7, 2014
IJMayer
Bellingham, WA
IJMayer   Bellingham, WA
Camping note: Free!. The limit is 5 days. There are a few, but not a lot of campsites, so either plan on driving another half hour to Lost Horse (and have directions), or be prepared to camp .5 miles in any direction from the campground. The water pump at this campground is not in service, so bring a filter or bring some bigger re-usable water containers. If you're there for a while you can fill up in Hamilton. Just be nice and ask!

And that boulder is rad. Although I think the description of the routes on the east and west faces should be switched around. May 15, 2014
Hello; My name is Robert Madsen and I'm the one who put up the first routes on the parking lot wall back in the late 60's and early 70's plus many exploratory attempts on the spires. I left a comment on the parking lot wall page. Robert Madsen Oct 26, 2015
the west face is the face up canyon,the down climd is on the east face.the lie back problem on west face is white lightning,is b1, and was climbed prior to 1983 Jul 24, 2017
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
Man I miss Blodgett (minus the long winter and ticks) and was poking around here reminiscing.
I wrote this TR about a link up Mack and I did a few years back that I thought people might enjoy.
supertopo.com/tr/A-return-t… Apr 4, 2018

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