Elevation: 6,697 ft
GPS: 46.277, -114.357 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 110,644 total · 857/month
Shared By: mr bojangles on Dec 3, 2009 with improvements by Marika Feduschak
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

Description

Blodgett Canyon sits in the middle of the Bitterroot Mountain Range and mainly consists of multi-pitch spires and one smaller cliff close to the parking lot.

The south facing side of the canyon is littered with granite cliffs and spires. If you have not been here it's certainly time to go. There is camping right before the trailhead as well as a bathroom right there in the parking lot. Most of the approaches to the spires can be a bit grueling, especially the ones further down the canyon.

Another thing to be noted, blodgett rock at times can be the ever puckering big loose block, super scaly, kitty litter type. The important thing to remember is you're climbing in Montana, and you’re going to run into the choss sooner than later. The climbing is mostly lay-backing in dihedrals but expect to also see face climbing, runnel mc dunnels, slabs, and rare jam cracks. I think that about does it for the description. If you can top this by all means do so, I just couldn’t bare to see one of Montana’s better areas absent on Mountain Project.

Approach: If you are gathering most of your information out of the falcon guide book do not pay much attention to the worthless approach descriptions. When you are somewhat in line with your climb, scout a line up the talus, find a log crossing, shed a layer, and convince your partner to carry the rope. If this is your first climb in the canyon count on an all day event and start early.

Descent: The decents in Blodgett can be tricky so leave ample time for getting down and know whether you need 2 ropes for the rap.

Getting There

Head towards Hamilton on Highway 93 and take Blodgett Canyon Road. Access to the climbing routes begin at the Blodgett Creek Trailhead. In Hamilton, Mt, drive west on Main Street (out of the downtown area) until you reach the bridge over the Bitterroot River. Just past (west) the bridge, turn right (north) onto Ricketts Road and drive for .5 mile. At the intersection, turn left (west) onto Blodgett Camp Road. Veer right at the intersection with FS 735 in about 2.5 miles.Continue for about 1.5 miles to the combined Blodgett Creek Campground and TH.

On your left is parking for a couple of dozen vehicles and an outhouse. Here is the trailhead for Blodgett Canyon.

35 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Blodgett Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 70
Shoshone South Face
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 17
Standard Route
Trad 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 8
The Free Lament
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 4
South End ("Horse's Nose")
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 5
In Memoriam
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Cornlier Ridge (first 3 pitches)
Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 9
South West Buttress
Trad 8 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 24
My Moms Muscle Shirt
Trad 8 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 6
Poison Flower
Trad 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 26
Timebinder
Trad 8 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1
 3
My Mom's Burnt Cat Memorial
Trad, Aid 7 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 4
Apathy
Trad 5 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Melanoma
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Shoshone South Face Shoshone Spire
 70
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Standard Route Drip Buttress
 17
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
The Free Lament Blackfoot Dome
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 3 pitches
South End ("Horse's Nose") Horsehead Arch
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
In Memoriam Shoshone Spire
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Cornlier Ridge (first 3 pit… Cornler Ridge > Cornlier Ridge
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
South West Buttress Nez Perce Spire
 9
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad 8 pitches
My Moms Muscle Shirt Flathead Buttress
 24
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 8 pitches
Poison Flower Shoshone Spire
 6
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Timebinder Prow
 26
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 8 pitches
My Mom's Burnt Cat Memorial Flathead Buttress
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1 Trad, Aid 7 pitches
Apathy Drip Buttress
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad 5 pitches
Melanoma Drip Buttress
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Blodgett Canyon »

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