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Routes in The Alley

Javelina Hardman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tornado in Peril T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Marcy, Geir, and Doso
Page Views: 43 total, 0/month
Shared By: Geir on Feb 6, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

This is a surprisingly fun route with varied climbing, good rock, and an old-school feel.

Start in the chimney on the left side of the Alley. Stem, Face Climb, or Chimney up 40' to a large ledge. Clip a bolt, then head up and slightly left to a second bolt. From here continue up aiming to the right of a small shrub on the ledge 70' above. The crux is after the ledge - head straight up past a bolt (5.10) to an anchor just below the summit.

Descent: Do NOT rappel the entire route. Rappel 90' to the large ledge at the top of the chimney, then walk off toward climber's left.

Location

Left side of the Alley. See overview photo.

Protection

Stoppers, Doubles to #2 Camalot.
Jimbo  
Engaging, sustained climbing all the way. Can't see the gear coming but it always does. 5.10b.

If a do this again I'll skip the opening chimney, which doesn't really add much to the route, and belay on the big ledge so I can't watch the leader. Apr 27, 2010
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.10
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.10
Originally done in 2 pitches only because Geir was so kind to give me a go at the summit. Geir (again) spotted a great line and skillfully lead past several areas of extremely questionable rock including two large blocks (that Arjun captured the removal of pictorially - see photos). I was in complete awe when I climbed through what he had lead past with the drill on his back. We were both pleasantly surprised that this route cleaned up nicely into really fun line. It was awesome to see David/MG and then Arjun/Hanna go up it later that day. Feb 9, 2010
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10a
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10a
A very fun route that has good pro -- you just can't see it until you get there! The "chimney" is especially disconcerting as it looks like a dark blank face that ends up being quite easy. Getting up on top is as delightful as the thoughtful moves were that got you there. Thanks you both for another terrific route, but I guess we need to thank Chewy the "tornado" too! Feb 7, 2010
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.10
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.10
Fun route with lots of varied climbing. The rap bolts are just below the actual summit. If you want to completely top out, as was done on the FA, you can build a gear anchor on the east side of the summit block.

Tornados rule!!!! Feb 7, 2010