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Routes in The Millenium Boulder

Black Heart V9 7C
Cargo Cult V3 6A
Epiphany V5+ 6C+
Friend to Fanboy V10+ 7C+ PG13
Ghost Dance V6 7A
Ghost Dance (crimp start) V7 7A+
Goat Dyno V8-9 7B+
Hickey's V7 V7 7A+
Island Time V3-4 6A+
Lono V1 5
Moon Child V10 7C+
Old Bones V6 7A
Prow Problem V6- 7A
Purity Control V10 7C+
Second Coming (aka Revelation?) V4-5 6B+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: ?????
Page Views: 2,012 total, 21/month
Shared By: Luke Childers on Feb 2, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up the pocketed face immediately left of the huge hueco on the Northwest side of the block just left of "Lono." This has thin but solid moves on good stone. Check it out.

Location

It is located on the North side of the "Millennium Block." This is the pocketed face just left of the huge hueco. It is the line left of "Lono."

Protection

Pads and spotter.

Photos

nate post
Silverthorne
 
nate post   Silverthorne
 
I think I enjoyed this more because I was alone. With a spotter, I think I would have gotten it on the first or second go, but since I didn't have one, I hung 6 or 7 times from the last two little pockets before building up the courage to just go for it. I kept dropping back to my one pad until I was happy with the placement. The boulder to the left of the landing was psyching me out. The lip on the top out is bomber, you can't really slip off it if you tried, it's got a knife's edge. May 4, 2013
tcamillieri
Denver
tcamillieri   Denver
I believe this is named Revolution (or maybe Revelation?). Feb 21, 2012
josh pranckun
Denver
josh pranckun   Denver
The 2 mono pockets up and to the left seem to be the ticket - definitely the most positive rock within range. Aug 9, 2011
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
How are you guys doing this one after the jugs in the hueco? I kept trying to go straight up from the left edge of the hueco but had trouble finding the holds. There were a couple thin but usable crystals slightly up and to the right but nothing with any chalk on it.

It looked like after leaving the hueco/jugs, the path of least resistance was to go left up to a pair of mono pockets, then a pinch, then to the top. All of those holds were more obvious and more chalked up. The added bonus to that line would have been not having to deal with a 3 ft. boulder right underneath you.

Also, I was doing these lines as a SDS, which didn't really add any difficulty to this one or the V1, but definitely added a fun couple of moves. Dec 12, 2010