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Routes in The Millenium Boulder

Black Heart V9 7C
Cargo Cult V3 6A
Epiphany V5+ 6C+
Friend to Fanboy V10+ 7C+ PG13
Ghost Dance V6 7A
Ghost Dance (crimp start) V7 7A+
Goat Dyno V8-9 7B+
Hickey's V7 V7 7A+
Island Time V3-4 6A+
Lono V1 5
Moon Child V10 7C+
Old Bones V6 7A
Prow Problem V6- 7A
Purity Control V10 7C+
Second Coming (aka Revelation?) V4-5 6B+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder
FA: Mike Hickey
Page Views: 2,679 total, 15/month
Shared By: Tony Dunn on Oct 14, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start on the prow to the left of "Purity Control". Sitdown (stand?) start, lefthand on an edge and righthand on a sidepull. Do the first move of the prow problem then traverse right along the seam. Grab a bad pocket with your lefthand and dyno for the lip. This is not the full beta.

Protection

One pad will do but two is better!

Photos

half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
  V7
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
  V7
Justin, Thunderhead is sick and a much better problem than Cannibal Dance, imo.... Any speculation on the grade of Thunderhead? Jan 27, 2011
For Cannibal Dance, you gain a right hand pocket, highstep left foot, left hand to a horrid pocket, then stab again to the ledge above. To be clear: Cannibal Dance aka Hickey's V7 climbs straight up. Thunderhead climbs that downhill face from low left to high right (ending at the top out as for Purity Control).

For what it's worth, my first trip to the Millennium Boulder, Hickey and Jade were there and pointed out "Cannibal Dance" as a stand start, which most believe is stiff for 7 as it is. The sit adds a bit of difficulty. Jan 5, 2010
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
I was out working this in November, and was unable to send from the bottom. I was heading out the ramp, then using a pocket for the right hand at the end of the ramp, and trying to reach another pocket which appears to facilitate a reach through to the ledge.... Is this the correct beta, or is the pocket out right off? Not like it matters a whole lot..If someone who knows would comment, it would be appreciated. Peace Dec 30, 2009
So to be clear, is the submitter describing what j.jaeger called Thunderhead? And is Hickey's and Cannibal Dance the same thing, both going straight up and not meeting Purity Control/Pocket Problem.

So this entry should be changed to Thunderhead and new entry should be created for Hickey's/Cannibal Dance. Apr 21, 2009
It's been a long while, but Hickey's V7 + Cannibal Dance: start standing w/ left-facing sidepull, power out to crimpy gaston? w/ RH, highstep left, LH to poor pocket, then again to lip.

Sit start on oppositional holds using a wild perched right foot adds a V grade or so.

Also, do the sit or stand start and climb the wall diagonally join and exit as for Purity Control /aka/ pocket problem. If I remember, I called this "Thunderhead"... a contrivance to be sure, but it gives you a really cool sequence getting the left most pocket of purity control and moving through it.

Whatever. Feb 27, 2009
cstorms
North Bend, OR
cstorms   North Bend, OR
Yes it is, can anyone give some more info on this one, everytime I'm there I can't seem to pick out the moves. Jul 27, 2008
Is this the problem known as Cannibal Dance? Nov 10, 2002