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Routes in The Millenium Boulder

Black Heart V9 7C
Cargo Cult V3 6A
Epiphany V5+ 6C+
Friend to Fanboy V10+ 7C+ PG13
Ghost Dance V6 7A
Ghost Dance (crimp start) V7 7A+
Goat Dyno V8-9 7B+
Hickey's V7 V7 7A+
Island Time V3-4 6A+
Lono V1 5
Moon Child V10 7C+
Old Bones V6 7A
Prow Problem V6- 7A
Purity Control V10 7C+
Second Coming (aka Revelation?) V4-5 6B+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: 1997?
Page Views: 7,851 total, 43/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 9, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

This is the route on the left side of the north face. From a good crimp, make a big move to a money pocket, and then another big move to the upper holds. It is a little sketchy up high but just enough to make it even cooler. One of the best looking and best climbing problems in the Front Range.

Protection

Pads.
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  V6
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  V6
Damn, I got spanked on this thing today! Felt like I had to stand on the rock at the base to get the original starting hold, but maybe I could've done it without. Either way it's a fun problem, and definitely V6 for me. Granted it eases up some after getting that first pocket, but it sure took me awhile to just do that! I think Doug nailed it, it's all about pain tolerance. May 6, 2011
tcamillieri
Denver
tcamillieri   Denver
Yes, the low (lay down) start has gone. I've done it and believe it was done long before that. Feb 10, 2011
Regarding Bob's comment above and some the the question marks re: establishment of lines, I can offer the following. In the season of '96/'97, a crew of Bob WIlliams, Greg Johnson, Rufus Miller, Mike Hickey, et al. scoured the block. We cleaned lines and climbed what we could. Kudos to Brian Capps for snagging Purity Control at a time when lots of strong climbers were trying it and coming close. Jade added Moon Child soon thereafter. Anyhow, when I cleaned the boulder, there were few signs of prior passage. There were some pitons, oddly, in the seam that runs from Purity Control to Ghost Dance. These seemed to be for aid practice, as the holds on the problems proper were still quite lichen-covered and crispy. Glad people still check it out now and again. Ghost Dance, to my recollection, went down by this crew in spring '97. It may have seen prior ascents, but I doubt it based on the condition of the line. Jan 29, 2011
bhoran
Boulder, CO
bhoran   Boulder, CO
Did anyone do this before 1986? Here's Ted doing it in mid-2000.
youtube.com/watch?v=NTm3AY7… Nov 13, 2010
Squish
Lakewood
Squish   Lakewood
I don't need stacked pads for the V6 stand start. I'm also 6'2". You can totally tell the ground erosion from the water runoff near the boulder so I consider the V6 stand legit with stacked pads b/c hey not everyone is 6ft tall. The rest of the problem I feel is a solid V6 with good movements and holds.
The V7 on the other hand is miserable for me, and I can't even establish myself on it. I'm not even going to attempt it, so I have no say on that issue. In fact the V8/V9 start looks more appealing going to the sharp crimps than starting on them, but I'm nowhere near a V9 climber and have only sent one V8, so it's really just my observation for now but when I do get to that level I'll come back to it.... Jun 4, 2010
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  V7
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  V7
I have added a pic of the V7 start crimps, for any clarification needed. This is a great problem, any way you look at it. May 31, 2010
Luke Childers  
  V6
I could do the V6 start with out stacked pads, and it was so sweet!! Loved it!! Jan 27, 2010
Richard, starting stacked pads for the V6 start has always been ok from what I have heard. The ground has eroded creating the lower start (V7) and the lowest (V8/9).

Just my 2 cents,

Best regards,
Andrew V Dec 3, 2009
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
If GD is not started from the two horizontal crimps (the crimp start), what is the alternate start? If it is from stacking pads, then is that really legit? Oct 19, 2009
doug rouse
Denver, CO.
doug rouse   Denver, CO.
I believe it is all about pain tolerance!!! I go about 170 lbs., and I can't imagine having very many "go's" at this one!!! I have never been on Babyface, but I do think this is Very Stout for V6, IMHO. Apr 12, 2009
I'd argue that Ghost Dance from the razor crimp standing start is harder than Babyface, which is often considered a national standard for V7. Feb 27, 2009
cstorms
North Bend, OR
  V6
cstorms   North Bend, OR
  V6
Better problem and V6 from the crimps. Aug 3, 2008
LML
Arvada
LML   Arvada
Most likely V6 from the two starting crimps, and V4/5 if you stack pads to start higher. Apr 19, 2008
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  V6
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  V6
Think it's a better problem (and V7) from the two poor crimps below the good right hand one. Best in the shade or in colder temps. Sweet problem. May 2, 2006