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Routes in Barney's Rubble

5.6 crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
5.7 Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.8 crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5.9 Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,417 total · 13/month
Shared By: Tom Bath on Dec 16, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Day Use Only and No Campfires Details

Description

This route starts with a slightly overhanging hand crack in an alcove. The jams are solid but the right wall makes the moves to the lip a little awkward. Once above the overhang the crack widens and the difficulty eases.

Location

The left crack on the left wall.

Protection

Gear to 3.5", Bolted anchor.

Photos

Chris Merz
Bellevue, WA
 
Chris Merz   Bellevue, WA
 
Awkward start to get in the crack, gets easier higher up Aug 13, 2016
Nathan Collins
Portland, OR
  5.8+
Nathan Collins   Portland, OR
  5.8+
I thought this route was super fun, well all 10 feet of the vertical hand/fist crack anyway ;) This seems to be great example of an easy route that requires crack technique. Two sport climbers in our party were unable to top rope it, including a 5.10 sport leader. When we were done another group tried to lead it, but couldn't figure out how to enter the overhanging start of the hand/fist crack and bailed.

If your hand and fist crack technique is not good, you will probably find this much harder than 5.8!

I'm a wimp and sewed it up with a BD #3 down on the bulge before the crack, and 2 or 3 #2s, a #1, and a large hex up above. You can back clean the #3 in the bulge and use it again above. Dec 24, 2016
Isaac
Portland
 
Isaac   Portland
 
Do not underestimate this route! After climbing half a dozen 5.8's around the Leavenworth area, this one was the toughest for me. Found myself reaching deep to get the jams and was thoroughly exhausted after just 10 feet of climbing. I thought my technique was improving, but evidently not... Aug 5, 2018

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