Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Barney's Rubble

5.6 crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
5.7 Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.8 crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5.9 Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,086 total, 11/month
Shared By: Tom Bath on Dec 16, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


41 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Day Use Only and No Campfires Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route starts with a slightly overhanging hand crack in an alcove. The jams are solid but the right wall makes the moves to the lip a little awkward. Once above the overhang the crack widens and the difficulty eases.

Location

The left crack on the left wall.

Protection

Gear to 3.5", Bolted anchor.

Photos

Nathan Collins
Portland, OR
  5.8+
Nathan Collins   Portland, OR
  5.8+
I thought this route was super fun, well all 10 feet of the vertical hand/fist crack anyway ;) This seems to be great example of an easy route that requires crack technique. Two sport climbers in our party were unable to top rope it, including a 5.10 sport leader. When we were done another group tried to lead it, but couldn't figure out how to enter the overhanging start of the hand/fist crack and bailed.

If your hand and fist crack technique is not good, you will probably find this much harder than 5.8!

I'm a wimp and sewed it up with a BD #3 down on the bulge before the crack, and 2 or 3 #2s, a #1, and a large hex up above. You can back clean the #3 in the bulge and use it again above. Dec 24, 2016
Chris Merz
Bellevue, WA
 
Chris Merz   Bellevue, WA
 
Awkward start to get in the crack, gets easier higher up Aug 13, 2016